XJ Parts Interchange Guide

This document was originally posted by BJ Kroppe. Sadly, the original is no longer on the web. Much of the information is very useful, so I offer it here.

I have reformatted it to correct what were (in my opinion) some unfortunate errors in how the data was presented. JB.

XJ6 Parts Replacement guide. Inputs captured from the xj-lovers, the former jag-lovers group, and my own experience.

I've been capturing from the xj-lovers and the old jag-lovers discussions, a list of parts that interchange with OEM parts on the XJ6, SI/II/III. The idea is that many of these parts are actually used in other makes of cars. Thus if you knew there was a Bosch or GM equivalent available, you can save considerable money and have original performance/behavior. Example is the fuel injection - Bosch parts are often identical and ~1/2 the price. Secondly, a number of parts are similar enough to parts from other makes, that they can be substituted easily (or not so easily, as in the door lock solenoids below), saving the owner money and giving equivalent or better performance.

Disclaimer: As always, you must always check the cross-reference yourself, and inspect that part carefully before installing (always good advice). The usual disclaimers apply, that is, you take the responsibility for these cross-references or any consequences from usage of these parts. Use your own judgement. If you do not want to use such judgement and be prepared for anomalies, get the exact original part from the dealer. Or, have the dealer or qualified mechanic do the entire repair for you.

If you discover bad data here, please notify me. Where the table specifies one series (SII, for example) the application may extend to other series, it's just not been checked. The source of the data is named and a quote, if any, is given. In some cases there are numerous data sources, I show the one that came to my attention first, or the one who had the best description of the process to convert the part or commentary on performance. Or the most interesting quote.

Part	Series or Year	Jaguar#	Cross-reference	DataSource
Amplifier	SII/III	C45402	.	HD Rodgers; also Bart from the list seconded this unit as the best.
	Commentary: Unit is from Australia
Amplifier	SII/III	C45402	.	Alan Howard jagspares@trump.net.au
	Commentary: We have been making our own air conditioning amplifiers for about 10 years here in Australia, they work as good as the original but are a fraction of the cost $142.00 Australian dollars which is about $90.00 US, airmail cost is $10.50 Aus. Alan Howard jagspares@trump.net.au
Amplifier	SII/III	C45402	Shown as the same in XKU catalog	XK's Unlimited
	Commentary: Unit is from the U.S.
Compressor	SI/II/III	JA-EAC9616X	GM A-6	Shield and others
	Commentary: Shield: GM A-6 threaded mounting holes are metric - must retap or get correct bolts. Specifics are in Kirby's XJS Book. I paid $85 USD for a rebuilt with clutch (7/96). Most sources are higher but still not bad. Kirby: .....the superheat switch will not fit in a compressor that was not made to have one, and most are made for a pressure switch these days. Best bet: just plan on abandoning the superheat switch and the 3-way fuse. By the way, one fundamental difference: the pressure switch is closed when all is OK and opens when pressure is low, so the clutch is generally grounded through it. The superheat switch that comes on the Jag, however, is open when everything is OK and closes to cause a short and blow the 3-way fuse when temp is too high. So, the wiring to the clutch goes through the fuse, and a third wire goes to the superheat switch which must NOT be grounded in order for the system to work. -- Kirbert
Expansion Valve (w/O-Ring fitting)	SIII	JA-CAC2423	Napa #207577 $28.99	Michael Stanford
	Commentary: Michael Stanford: "Any NAPA store will either have one or be able to get one. $28.99 "
Expansion Valve (w/O-Ring fitting)	SIII 1987	JA-CAC2423	A8262 EVERCO or 207577 Murray	M. Crail
	Commentary: M.Crail: "I just did that job on my 87. The expansion valve was $31.58 part # A8262 EVERCO or 207577 Murray. The valve was used on lots of cars foreign and domestic. The Receiver/Dryer was a 31-1106 I don't have the brand @ $31.69. I also had a leaking hose repaired look for the refrigerant oil leaving a residue near the leak. Call around for the parts prices were all over the board for the same parts, Generally there will be a parts house which specialty is auto a/c. Good prices/parts and perhaps good advice [they don't have a service bay to feed]. It took a set of crow foot wrenchs [less than $10 bucks @ carport] to reach the connections on the x/vlv be careful! The valve is connected to the inside Delenair unit directly do not put off axis force on the line connection or you may get huge problems with a leak in the delenair unit. A word on Jaguar service the original reciever/dryer was installed backwards. The flow direction is out of the dryer towardsthe expansion valve and the inside of the car. From passenger to drivers side on my car. (ed. LHD?) I also repaired my elec. fan operation [ it should operate when the A/C is on ] I put a jumper from the 12v signal to the compressor clutch to the green/white lead on the fan relay. I tried to trace the Jag harness out but 6 hours into it I thought of a better way! I had the system charged with @3lbs of R-12 this A.M. {$131.00 at the express oil change} and got 29' F at the center vent. My wife took her kitty out this evening for a test drive froze her out but broke the alternator belt! Ah yes but I do love to maintain this car."

Part

Series or Year

Jaguar#

Cross-reference

DataSource

Amplifier

SII/III

C45402

HD Rodgers; also Bart from the list seconded this unit as the best.

Commentary: Unit is from Australia

Amplifier

SII/III

C45402

Alan Howard jagspares@trump.net.au

Commentary: We have been making our own air conditioning amplifiers for about 10 years here in Australia, they work as good as the original but are a fraction of the cost $142.00 Australian dollars which is about $90.00 US, airmail cost is $10.50 Aus. Alan Howard jagspares@trump.net.au

Amplifier

SII/III

C45402

Shown as the same in XKU catalog

XK's Unlimited

Commentary: Unit is from the U.S.

Compressor

SI/II/III

JA-EAC9616X

GM A-6

Shield and others

Commentary: Shield: GM A-6 threaded mounting holes are metric - must retap or get correct bolts. Specifics are in Kirby's XJS Book. I paid $85 USD for a rebuilt with clutch (7/96). Most sources are higher but still not bad.

Kirby: .....the superheat switch will not fit in a compressor that was not made to have one, and most are made for a pressure switch these days. Best bet: just plan on abandoning the superheat switch and the 3-way fuse. By the way, one fundamental difference: the pressure switch is closed when all is OK and opens when pressure is low, so the clutch is generally grounded through it. The superheat switch that comes on the Jag, however, is open when everything is OK and closes to cause a short and blow the 3-way fuse when temp is too high. So, the wiring to the clutch goes through the fuse, and a third wire goes to the superheat switch which must NOT be grounded in order for the system to work. -- Kirbert

Expansion Valve (w/O-Ring fitting)

SIII

JA-CAC2423

Napa #207577 $28.99

Michael Stanford

Commentary: Michael Stanford: "Any NAPA store will either have one or be able to get one. $28.99 "

Expansion Valve (w/O-Ring fitting)

SIII 1987

JA-CAC2423

A8262 EVERCO or 207577 Murray

M. Crail

Commentary: M.Crail: "I just did that job on my 87. The expansion valve was $31.58 part # A8262 EVERCO or 207577 Murray. The valve was used on lots of cars foreign and domestic. The Receiver/Dryer was a 31-1106 I don't have the brand @ $31.69. I also had a leaking hose repaired look for the refrigerant oil leaving a residue near the leak.

Call around for the parts prices were all over the board for the same parts, Generally there will be a parts house which specialty is auto a/c. Good prices/parts and perhaps good advice [they don't have a service bay to feed]. It took a set of crow foot wrenchs [less than $10 bucks @ carport] to reach the connections on the x/vlv be careful! The valve is connected to the inside Delenair unit directly do not put off axis force on the line connection or you may get huge problems with a leak in the delenair unit. A word on Jaguar service the original reciever/dryer was installed backwards. The flow direction is out of the dryer towardsthe expansion valve and the inside of the car. From passenger to drivers side on my car. (ed. LHD?)

I also repaired my elec. fan operation [ it should operate when the A/C is on ] I put a jumper from the 12v signal to the compressor clutch to the green/white lead on the fan relay. I tried to trace the Jag harness out but 6 hours into it I thought of a better way! I had the system charged with @3lbs of R-12 this A.M. {$131.00 at the express oil change} and got 29' F at the center vent. My wife took her kitty out this evening for a test drive froze her out but broke the alternator belt! Ah yes but I do love to maintain this car."

Part	Jaguar #	Cross-reference	Data Source
Antenna mast	All		Universal bendy-type	Paul Gover
	Commentary:Paul Gover: For aerial lift motors; I have in the past fitted the cheapest electic aerials; I found if you bent the Lucar connectors on the fuel tank, with a lot of cursing, the motor unit would just fit in. But they still seized after a year or two. Hopeless. I now use a bendy rubber stick aerial about 14" long; I think the signal is better, and I don't care too much if the car wash or a vandal tries to tie a knot in it!
Antenna Mast	SIII, XJS, Japanese-manufactured	DAC3542 or DAC4090		HD Rodgers
	Commentary: Hal Rodgers: "The unit that we sell which is a replacement unit, not exactly the original, I usually sell for about $140.00 and you may need a fitting kit as well...It replaces DAC3542 or DAC4090 Jaguar part number which fit XJ6 Series 3, XJS, and early XJS HE."
	Late 80s Jags using Hirschman	DBC2200	Hirschman	HD Rodgers
	Commentary: Hal Rodgers: "A replaceable mast is available for the Hirschman brand antennas..the mast is the same for some german cars. I sell the mast mail order for $15.00. The Jaguar equivalent part number is DBC2200...but don't bother checking their price! Mostly late 80s-up cars XJ6 88->, and XJS HE."
	SIII		JC Whitney	Bart
	Commentary: Bart: The automatic all-in-one antennas of the Harada type do NOT work on the XJ6. Tried it, modified it etc...There just isn't enough space between the tank and the light assembly to accomodate the motor at the end of the antenna. The only two solutions are 1. Call Hal Rogers in Bossier City, LA if you like an affordable factory one ($125 ?) or the JC Whitney remote antenna ($59.00) (BTW, their parts numbers change from catalog to catalog but they only list one remote antenna, something like 31" mast, 29" remote lead).
Back-up lamps			High-wattage Halogens - specifically sold as back-up lamps	Shield
	Commentary: Shield:" I use these in all my cars - much brighter. Available from many parts stores, even Target (A U.S> discount wares chain). About $10 USD each."
Door seals (the fat rubber ones)	SI/II/III		pending
	Commentary:
Door liners (the cloth-covered ones) (the fat rubber ones)	SI/II/III		Furflex	Craig Sawyers
	Commentary: Craig Sawyers: " There are umpteen different part numbers for these. The long ones that go front to aft I have as BAC2169 BAC7550PA RTC2122PA And the short vertical ones BAC2168PA RTC1751 RTC1752 RTC2123 BAC5507 The UK price for two long ones and four short ones is about Ł80UK. However, the material is called "furflex" and is a generic stuff that is used on just about every older car. I'd try shopping around the car parts stores and see what you find. You need 13 metres in total."
Headlamp Buckets (7")	SI/II/III US-Spec	AEU-1900	Triumph TR7	Lew Plummer
	Commentary:Plummer:It's been a five month search for the big cat lights. I've contacted many for pricing -- was always more than I was willing to pay. Then it dawned on me "how stupid, you own a TR7 parts car and it's got 7 inch head lights." I don't know how many times I looked at the Triumph without the "Lights" going on. The light assembles are a fit. All I did is drill the four pop rivets out of the Triumph adapter and I had all but the chrome Jag rings in hand. Better yet the leads were the exact length required and the same color. I just pulled the new leads in with the old ones and plugged them in -- 2 hours max. Those of you who made the switch are absolutely correct the front end looks right now -- pictures don't do it justice.
Headlamp rim(in fenders)	Outboard headlamp rim(infenders)SI/II/III 5.5"	DAC2110 is U.S. spec DAC-5207	DAC 10680 is the UK-spec for 7" headlamps - looks much nicer than U.S. spec.	Shield, Nick Johanssen
	Commentary: Shield: "Get 7" headlamp rims from the UK, Aus. or almost anywhere outside the U.S. Your U.S. Jag dealer won't carry them, since they were never installed on any U.S.-model XJ6s. Buckets are standard British Leyland - the stickers on my set said 'British Leyland'. These should be available anywhere. 7" headlamps are easily available in US. As always, Hella is a good source for high-quality (not cheap) lights." 2/97 Per Nick, Classic Spares is preparing a kit with all necessary parts to do the conversion.
Door and Ignition key			Many	Dr. Michael Rothman
	Commentary: Dr. Michael Rothman: I just got back from the National Hardware Show at Chicago's MacCormic Place. What is a Podiatrist doing at a hardware show?? I am a trade show junkie. I talked with the ILCO key company reps about blanks for Jaguar. The Table below is copied from their Auto Truck Key Blank Cross Reference Guide. 79-87 IGNITION FR1-6000 FT6R FT6R X1 / MZ12 FZ1-1232 76-78 IGNITION FR1-6000 FT6R FT6R X1 / MZ12 DOOR/trUNK JC1-854 BL6 BL6 FZ1-1232 DOOR/trUNK AK01-1000 X86 FC7 X20 / FC2 73-75 IGNITION FR1-6000 FT6R FT6R X1 / MZ12 FZ1-1232 DOOR/trUNK FS1-099 62FS 62FS DOOR/trUNK FT101-225 62FS 62FS CROSS REFERENCE ILCO ILCO/EZ COLE CURTIS DOMINION SILCA X1 MZ12 MZ12 WS2 MZ12 DAT5 FT6R FT6R F77 DM9 DM1R BL6 BL6 - - - - X86 FC7 - - CE9 FO10 X20 FC2 - FC2 - FO7 62FS 62FS EN2 UN18 62DR -
Door and Ignition key			Mazda Cole mz12 for the ignition Cole mz4 for the doors	Dave Zane
	Commentary: Dave Zane: The mazda key works and is available viturally everywhere, but you have to grind the end of either the ignition or the one for the doors (can't remember). If you don't grind, the key will still work, but the stop is too far in. My key codes are as follows This at least works for my Series 3. And much cheaper than the 16 bucks quoted from Jag. Cole mz12 for the ignition, Cole mz4 for the doors.
Door and Ignition key			ILCO	Paul Spitzer
	Commentary: Paul Spitzer: ILCO blank for ignition has two numbers on it and script "made in Canada" FT6R F81E. ILCO blank for trunk and doors- made in USA BL6. Both work perfectly on my '83 at a total of $ 3.00 US from the local locksmith. Happy Trails, Paul Spitzer, AZ.
Leaper, Bonnet	SI,II,III	There wasn't one	Hal Rodgers, among others	Justin Grant
	Commentary: Justin Grant: I bought my OE Leaper (new) from Hal Rogers for $30.00. That was with shipping.. Hal Rogers H.D. Rogers & Sons Import Auto Specialists 3418 Barksdale Blvd. Bossier City LA 71112 USA (318)742-3651 phone (318) 742-5044 fax http://www.hdrogers.com/
Door Lock Solenoids		DAC 3529 Drivers door DAC 3530 Passenger doors and boot	KIEKERT - commonly used onEuropean cars of same vintage	Lennart Hellberg
	Commentary: Lennart Hellberg: In Volvo_s from the same years as Jaguar, you will also find KIEKERT operated units to operate the door locks.
			Door lock solenoids from JEGS Door Actuator kit #960-80167	Paul Hibbs
	Commentary: Paul Hibbs: "Worm-gear driven, they don't slam the locks. Significant work required to make mounting brackets. Available from JEGS auto products 1-800-345-4545 (free shipping). The kit and actuators are manufactured by VPA corp., Carson CA 90746; vendor p/n 89-80301 and 89-80291."
Power window motors			GM	Carlos Madero; David Quintanat; Marv Green
	Commentary: Carlos Madero: "..upon examination, it said "Delco Made in the US". I went to the salvage yard and located an early 70's Cadillac, .. exact same part, I paid 10 dollars.." David Quintana: "I can also verify that the window lift motors are Delco motors, and while most Autozone, Pep Boys, etc. don't list the exact part number, they are easily interchangeable. Taking to a breaker yard should yield an easy match for a frachtion of the $150 to $200 generally asked for." Marv Green: I had a ... problem that I chased for better than a year. I cleaned contacts, checked the switches with a VOM, swapped with those from the rear doors, all kinds of fun things. Finally, the window just would not work. I pulled the motor, took it apart, and found that one of the brushes was completely worn away. A little work to true the commutator, >and a new set of brushes from a local automotive motor rebuild shop, and the window works better than it ever has before. The brushes cost US$ 9.00. The window motors on my '73 XJ6 are identical to those used on mid-70s to early '80s GM cars. They are Delco units, so brushes and motors are easy to get and much cheaper than the Jaguar new or rebuilt units.

Part

Jaguar #

Cross-reference

Data Source

Antenna mast

All

Universal bendy-type

Paul Gover

Commentary:Paul Gover: For aerial lift motors; I have in the past fitted the cheapest electic aerials; I found if you bent the Lucar connectors on the fuel tank, with a lot of cursing, the motor unit would just fit in. But they still seized after a year or two. Hopeless. I now use a bendy rubber stick aerial about 14" long; I think the signal is better, and I don't care too much if the car wash or a vandal tries to tie a knot in it!

Antenna Mast

SIII, XJS, Japanese-manufactured

DAC3542 or DAC4090

HD Rodgers

Commentary: Hal Rodgers: "The unit that we sell which is a replacement unit, not exactly the original, I usually sell for about $140.00 and you may need a fitting kit as well...It replaces DAC3542 or DAC4090 Jaguar part number which fit XJ6 Series 3, XJS, and early XJS HE."

Late 80s Jags using Hirschman

DBC2200

Hirschman

HD Rodgers

Commentary: Hal Rodgers: "A replaceable mast is available for the Hirschman brand antennas..the mast is the same for some german cars. I sell the mast mail order for $15.00. The Jaguar equivalent part number is DBC2200...but don't bother checking their price! Mostly late 80s-up cars XJ6 88->, and XJS HE."

SIII

JC Whitney

Bart

Commentary: Bart: The automatic all-in-one antennas of the Harada type do NOT work on the XJ6. Tried it, modified it etc...There just isn't enough space between the tank and the light assembly to accomodate the motor at the end of the antenna. The only two solutions are 1. Call Hal Rogers in Bossier City, LA if you like an affordable factory one ($125 ?) or the JC Whitney remote antenna ($59.00) (BTW, their parts numbers change from catalog to catalog but they only list one remote antenna, something like 31" mast, 29" remote lead).

Back-up lamps

High-wattage Halogens - specifically sold as back-up lamps

Shield

Commentary: Shield:" I use these in all my cars - much brighter. Available from many parts stores, even Target (A U.S> discount wares chain). About $10 USD each."

Door seals (the fat rubber ones)

SI/II/III

pending

Commentary:

Door liners (the cloth-covered ones) (the fat rubber ones)

SI/II/III

Furflex

Craig Sawyers

Commentary: Craig Sawyers: " There are umpteen different part numbers for these. The long ones that go front to aft I have as
BAC2169
BAC7550PA
RTC2122PA
And the short vertical ones
BAC2168PA
RTC1751
RTC1752
RTC2123
BAC5507
The UK price for two long ones and four short ones is about Ł80UK. However, the material is called "furflex" and is a generic stuff that is used on just about every older car. I'd try shopping around the car parts stores and see what you find. You need 13 metres in total."

Headlamp Buckets (7")

SI/II/III US-Spec

AEU-1900

Triumph TR7

Lew Plummer

Commentary:Plummer:It's been a five month search for the big cat lights. I've contacted many for pricing -- was always more than I was willing to pay. Then it dawned on me "how stupid, you own a TR7 parts car and it's got 7 inch head lights." I don't know how many times I looked at the Triumph without the "Lights" going on. The light assembles are a fit. All I did is drill the four pop rivets out of the Triumph adapter and I had all but the chrome Jag rings in hand. Better yet the leads were the exact length required and the same color. I just pulled the new leads in with the old ones and plugged them in -- 2 hours max. Those of you who made the switch are absolutely correct the front end looks right now -- pictures don't do it justice.

Headlamp rim(in fenders)

Outboard headlamp rim(infenders)SI/II/III 5.5"

DAC2110 is U.S. spec DAC-5207

DAC 10680 is the UK-spec for 7" headlamps - looks much nicer than U.S. spec.

Shield, Nick Johanssen

Commentary: Shield: "Get 7" headlamp rims from the UK, Aus. or almost anywhere outside the U.S. Your U.S. Jag dealer won't carry them, since they were never installed on any U.S.-model XJ6s. Buckets are standard British Leyland - the stickers on my set said 'British Leyland'. These should be available anywhere. 7" headlamps are easily available in US. As always, Hella is a good source for high-quality (not cheap) lights."

2/97 Per Nick, Classic Spares is preparing a kit with all necessary parts to do the conversion.

Door and Ignition key

Many

Dr. Michael Rothman

Commentary: Dr. Michael Rothman: I just got back from the National Hardware Show at Chicago's MacCormic Place. What is a Podiatrist doing at a hardware show?? I am a trade show junkie. I talked with the ILCO key company reps about blanks for Jaguar. The Table below is copied from their Auto Truck Key Blank Cross Reference Guide.
79-87 IGNITION FR1-6000 FT6R FT6R X1 / MZ12 FZ1-1232

76-78 IGNITION FR1-6000 FT6R FT6R X1 / MZ12
DOOR/trUNK JC1-854 BL6 BL6 FZ1-1232
DOOR/trUNK AK01-1000 X86 FC7 X20 / FC2
73-75 IGNITION FR1-6000 FT6R FT6R X1 / MZ12 FZ1-1232
DOOR/trUNK FS1-099 62FS 62FS
DOOR/trUNK FT101-225 62FS 62FS
CROSS REFERENCE
ILCO ILCO/EZ COLE CURTIS DOMINION SILCA
X1 MZ12 MZ12 WS2 MZ12 DAT5
FT6R FT6R F77 DM9 DM1R
BL6 BL6 - - - -
X86 FC7 - - CE9 FO10
X20 FC2 - FC2 - FO7
62FS 62FS EN2 UN18 62DR -

Door and Ignition key

Mazda Cole mz12 for the ignition Cole mz4 for the doors

Dave Zane

Commentary: Dave Zane: The mazda key works and is available viturally everywhere, but you have to grind the end of either the ignition or the one for the doors (can't remember). If you don't grind, the key will still work, but the stop is too far in. My key codes are as follows This at least works for my Series 3. And much cheaper than the 16 bucks quoted from Jag. Cole mz12 for the ignition, Cole mz4 for the doors.

Door and Ignition key

ILCO

Paul Spitzer

Commentary: Paul Spitzer: ILCO blank for ignition has two numbers on it and script "made in Canada" FT6R F81E. ILCO blank for trunk and doors- made in USA BL6. Both work perfectly on my '83 at a total of $ 3.00 US from the local locksmith. Happy Trails, Paul Spitzer, AZ.

Leaper, Bonnet

SI,II,III

There wasn't one

Hal Rodgers, among others

Justin Grant

Commentary: Justin Grant: I bought my OE Leaper (new) from Hal Rogers for $30.00. That was with shipping.. Hal Rogers
H.D. Rogers & Sons
Import Auto Specialists
3418 Barksdale Blvd.
Bossier City LA 71112 USA
(318)742-3651 phone (318) 742-5044 fax
http://www.hdrogers.com/

Door Lock Solenoids

DAC 3529
Drivers door
DAC 3530
Passenger doors and boot

KIEKERT - commonly used onEuropean cars of same vintage

Lennart Hellberg

Commentary: Lennart Hellberg: In Volvo_s from the same years as Jaguar, you will also find KIEKERT operated units to operate the door locks.

Door lock solenoids from JEGS Door Actuator kit #960-80167

Paul Hibbs

Commentary: Paul Hibbs: "Worm-gear driven, they don't slam the locks. Significant work required to make mounting brackets. Available from JEGS auto products 1-800-345-4545 (free shipping). The kit and actuators are manufactured by VPA corp., Carson CA 90746; vendor p/n 89-80301 and 89-80291."

Power window motors

Carlos Madero; David Quintanat; Marv Green

Commentary: Carlos Madero: "..upon examination, it said "Delco Made in the US". I went to the salvage yard and located an early 70's Cadillac, .. exact same part, I paid 10 dollars.."

David Quintana: "I can also verify that the window lift motors are Delco motors, and while most Autozone, Pep Boys, etc. don't list the exact part number, they are easily interchangeable. Taking to a breaker yard should yield an easy match for a frachtion of the $150 to $200 generally asked for."
Marv Green: I had a ... problem that I chased for better than a year. I cleaned contacts, checked the switches with a VOM, swapped with those from the rear doors, all kinds of fun things. Finally, the window just would not work. I pulled the motor, took it apart, and found that one of the brushes was completely worn away. A little work to true the commutator, >and a new set of brushes from a local automotive motor rebuild shop, and the window works better than it ever has before. The brushes cost US$ 9.00. The window motors on my '73 XJ6 are identical to those used on mid-70s to early '80s GM cars. They are Delco units, so brushes and motors are easy to get and much cheaper than the Jaguar new or rebuilt units.

Part	Series or Year	Jaguar #	Cross-reference	Data Source
Booster (Servo)	Late '77-'87	GR-74049095	Same part #, XJS '77-on (metric fittings)	?
Hoses	SIII (others?)			Craig Sawyers
	Commentary:Here in the UK, there is a company called Automec, who make brake hose kits for just about every car on God's earth. Bought a set for my XJ12 last year. Complete kit, all the right length, copper pipe, with the correct fittings everywhere. Cost me Ł60UK, and I'm well pleased. They probably will export. Just been to the garage, and found the box. For my car (1983 XJ12, UK) it was kit GB5530. Their phone number is (44) 1280 822818/823117 fax 823140. PS you have to buy the flexible hoses seperately, but they aren't a king's ransom either.
Master Cylinder	SIII	GR-74066132	NAPA #0780054	Michael Stanford
	Commentary: Michael Stanford: "Master Cyl, Rebuilt Beck/Arnley NAPA #0780054 $95.99 This is a re-machined girling unit with oversized piston and parts. It is vastly superior to the generic $50.00 rebuilt units commonly available."
.Master Cylinder	SI	GR-64068676 (not a kit)	Beck-Arnley 071-1028 (KIT!)	David Quintana
	Commentary: David Quintana: "Series I Master Cylinder Rebuild Kit--Beck/Arnley Part No. 071-1028 worked well, about $40 US, and the job was rather easy. "

Part

Series or Year

Jaguar #

Cross-reference

Data Source

Booster (Servo)

Late '77-'87

GR-74049095

Same part #,
XJS '77-on (metric fittings)

Hoses

SIII (others?)

Craig Sawyers

Commentary:Here in the UK, there is a company called Automec, who make brake hose kits for just about every car on God's earth. Bought a set for my XJ12 last year. Complete kit, all the right length, copper pipe, with the correct fittings everywhere. Cost me Ł60UK, and I'm well pleased.

They probably will export. Just been to the garage, and found the box. For my car (1983 XJ12, UK) it was kit GB5530. Their phone number is (44) 1280 822818/823117 fax 823140. PS you have to buy the flexible hoses seperately, but they aren't a king's ransom either.

Master Cylinder

SIII

GR-74066132

NAPA #0780054

Michael Stanford

Commentary: Michael Stanford: "Master Cyl, Rebuilt Beck/Arnley NAPA #0780054 $95.99 This is a re-machined girling unit with oversized piston and parts. It is vastly superior to the generic $50.00 rebuilt units commonly available."

.Master Cylinder

GR-64068676 (not a kit)

Beck-Arnley 071-1028 (KIT!)

David Quintana

Commentary: David Quintana: "Series I Master Cylinder Rebuild Kit--Beck/Arnley Part No. 071-1028 worked well, about $40 US, and the job was rather easy. "

NOTE: I could use some guidance here. My XKs Unlimited catalog does not distinguish between SI, SII, and SIII when it comes to heater valves, yet many people have told me they are different. Does someone have the real SI Jaguar part number for me? Thanks. David 12/18/97

Part	Series or Year	Jaguar #	Cross-reference	Data Source
Aux. Fan relay (the red one to the left of the radiator)	'76-'85	LU-SRB411	Hella 4RD003 520-13	Volker Nadenau
	Commentary: Volker Nadenau: "It is of course 12V and rated for 30Amps. It fits without any modifications in the red Lucas socket."
			Bosch is 0.332.204.105; Potter & Brumfield is VF4 45F11.	Bob Whiles
			.Bosch 0.332.209.150	Tom Bernett
	Commentary: Tom Bernett: Following the tips here I searched the auto parts stores for a replacement. No luck until I went to a foreign parts place that I knew carried Bosch stuff. They had a Bosch 0 332 209 150 which functions the same and plugs right in. Doesn't look as good as the nice round, red one it replaces in my opinion, but it works and has a tab for mounting to one of the posts for the original Lucas. USD 9.50 (where are you guys finding replacements for USD 2? Seems pretty cheap to me)
Aux. Fan Temperature Sender	SIII	DAC 3061	Bap-Geon part 201-1512	Tom Bernett
	Commentary: Tom Bernett: When I called around to the parts stores for the temperature switch, I asked if they could tell me the trip point. Not one could. Anyway, I found one at Bap-Geon for US $19 (sounds better than $63 quoted by the Jag dealer). It's Bap-Geon part 201-1512 and is the same as the Jag DAC 3061. Stamped into the switch is "95 90" with what looks like the 'degree' symbol following each number. Close at 95 deg. and open at 90 deg.? I tested it in a pot of hot water. Assuming I'm adjusting correctly for a miscalibrated cooking thermometer, it closed at 90 deg. and opened at 85 deg. The old one closed almost 10 deg. C higher. Ok, install it. (BTW, removing the old and installing the new wasn't nearly as difficult as I remembered it.) I ran the car for more than 30 min with A/C on max and it never got hot enough to trip the switch (temp needle never got above the very low range of green. Guess that means my cooling system is in pretty good shape. So, haven't been able to fully test the switch, but I'm sure it's OK.
			Wahler	Bruce Segal
	Commentary: Bruce Segal: Wahler make a line of thermo switches that can be had in almost any temp range. Part numbers are 6010 92, 6010 88 etc, with the last two digits being the switch point. In Canada they can be obtained from most Bosch parts suppliers.
Fan Clutch SIII with plastic fan	SIII	JA-EAC-4751	Hayden 2765	Shield
	Commentary: Shield: "Worked for 4.5 years, so far. Note that the Haynes manual indicates different bolt patterns - check yours before purchase."
	SIII	JA-EAC-4751	Hayden 2705	Kroppe
	Commentary: B.J. Kroppe: I installed a new fan clutch (Hayden 2705, specified for 1980 Buick LeSabre 350 cid) and it fits and works great. This is the "heavy duty" model. I don't know what makes it heavy duty, although the "light duty" does not look like the original Jaguar item, and the 2705 looks almost exactly like it.
	SIII	JA-EAC-4751	1980 Buick 350	Charles Gaudi
	Commentary: Charles Gaudi: "The clutch is a model for the 1980 buick 350 v-8. cost $22.95 u.s. It seems to have made things better.."
Fan Clutch	SIII		Imperial Automotive Products: Fan Clutch P/N 215049	Mark Bristow
	Commentary: Mark Bristow: "I just installed, with ease an Imperial 215049 fan clutch for $29.99 from Parts America (formerly Western Auto). It is about 1/2 inch longer than the original Jag clutch, but there is still about 1" between Clutch and radiator. It works great. The 215049 is a stock item at Parts America and not a special order." From John Klar: Imperial fan clutch #215018 which is the one that is called for but is about $50.00 more than the others suggested. The others were louder and I did find that objectionable. The metal 18 inch fan #220618 (Imperial) works fine.
	SIII		NAPA 271305	Jim Warren

Fan Clutch and Fan (Only as a pair - the clutch and stock fan will not fit)	SIII		Imperial Automotive Products: Fan Clutch P/N 211043, and Fan P/N 0142 (as a pair)	Dan Fitch
	Commentary: Dan Fitch "The new fan, a six-blade metal 18" unit, works great - noticeably more air at low RPM; however, a little noisy. The lesser number of blades makes a lower note which is more noticeable, especially when the tach is over 3,000. The clutch is a non-thermostatic (heavy duty cooling) version probably used for towing and heavy duty use. Since I live in hot Florida, this was my clutch of choice. You might be better advised to get the thermostatic one, especially if you have significant winter driving in mind. I was after lots of air flow all of the time. The thermostatic version is the standard unit for the Buick (and probably most larger GM models of the early 80's). I bought the units at a local parts store - both made by Imperial Automotive Products: Fan Clutch P/N 211043, and Fan P/N 0142." (ed. Note that while the Imperial clutch will bolt to the original fan, there is not enough clearance between the water pump and the radiator. If you just want to replace the clutch, use one of the options above. 5/29/98)
Fan blade	SIII		Imperial	Matt Kilgore
	I thought I was going to be forced to replace the fan and clutch as an assembly even though my Jag fan clutch was o-k. I took them both to the parts store and found that I was able to use an IMPERIAL AUTOMOTIVE PRODUCTS # 220618 Fan for a fan clutch application $21.03 tax included, Discount auto parts. It bolted directly to the jag fan clutch, although it does protrude into the engine compartment slightly more @ 1/4 inch but no interference problems. There is noticeably more air movement and I cannot tell a difference in the noise output.
Water pump	SIII		Durst	Roger Homer

Heater Valve	SIII	C41051	Terry's	Hunt Dabney
	Commentary: Hunt Dabney "FWIW, I bought a "real" heater valve from Terry's (I'm pretty sure). It was the larger, all metal one, expensive, but it forms an air-tight seal when closed, also has a very strong return spring and a fairly large vacuum solenoid. This is not the case for the valve that I replaced, which was plastic, very light return spring and smaller solenoid. Just some observations for selection criterion!"
	SII or SIII		Pep Boys Factory Air 74612	Larry Lee
	Commentary: Larry Lee: "(I) purchased one at Auto Zone for $11.99. It was listed under "Jaguar XJ6L with A/C" on their computer database. This is an all-plastic, direct-acting, normally open valve with 5/8" hose bibs. It sounds just like the valve you have listed as Factory Air No. 74803 (ed. Below). I have no idea why the number is different. I do not know if this valve would work on an SI, as there are significant differences in the earlier A/C system."
	SIII		Pep Boys Factory Air 74803	David Quintana
	Commentary: David Quintana: " Heater Control Valve--the late-model plastic type is available from Pep Boys, et al. One brand name is Factory Air, Part No. 74803. This black plastic is good looking and definitely superior to a metal type. The reference is to a Series III XJ6 or XJ40. Part is about $12 US."
	SIII		Late model Jag plastic valve	Kirby Palm
	Commentary: Kirby Palm: "Another option is to replace it with a Jaguar valve! The newer XJ's use a valve made entirely of plastic -- no metal at all -- and cost half what the Chevy valves cost. Although some people don't like plastic, the design of this valve is so superior that it is probably the most reliable choice."
	SIII		'83 Olds Cutlass	Chad Bolles
	Commentary: Chad Bolles: You should be able to blow air through it while holding it in your hand. The Jag is also normally open.
	SIII		GM	Carlos Madera
	Commentary: Carlos Madera: "I had to replace the heater valve in the car, and found that Chevrolets of late 60's or early 70's use the exact same part."
	SI		NAPA 660-1024; TRAK H25-201	David Quintana
	Commentary: David Quintana: "Heater Control Valve--For the Series I, the heater control valve is a closed-type. meaning you can't blow air through it when holding it in your hand--just the opposite of the SIII. NAPA has the part as 660-1024 for about $24 US. However, a 1970 to 1979 Chevy had the same valve; Trak Auto Part No. H25-201 was about $10 US."

Part

Series or Year

Jaguar #

Cross-reference

Data Source

Aux. Fan relay (the red one to the left of the radiator)

'76-'85

LU-SRB411

Hella 4RD003 520-13

Volker Nadenau

Commentary: Volker Nadenau: "It is of course 12V and rated for 30Amps. It fits without any modifications in the red Lucas socket."

Bosch is 0.332.204.105; Potter & Brumfield is VF4 45F11.

Bob Whiles

.Bosch 0.332.209.150

Tom Bernett

Commentary: Tom Bernett: Following the tips here I searched the auto parts stores for a replacement. No luck until I went to a foreign parts place that I knew carried Bosch stuff. They had a Bosch 0 332 209 150 which functions the same and plugs right in. Doesn't look as good as the nice round, red one it replaces in my opinion, but it works and has a tab for mounting to one of the posts for the original Lucas. USD 9.50 (where are you guys finding replacements for USD 2? Seems pretty cheap to me)

Aux. Fan Temperature Sender

SIII

DAC 3061

Bap-Geon part 201-1512

Tom Bernett

Commentary: Tom Bernett: When I called around to the parts stores for the temperature switch, I asked if they could tell me the trip point. Not one could. Anyway, I found one at Bap-Geon for US $19 (sounds better than $63 quoted by the Jag dealer). It's Bap-Geon part 201-1512 and is the same as the Jag DAC 3061. Stamped into the switch is "95 90" with what looks like the 'degree' symbol following each number. Close at 95 deg. and open at 90 deg.? I tested it in a pot of hot water. Assuming I'm adjusting correctly for a miscalibrated cooking thermometer, it closed at 90 deg. and opened at 85 deg. The old one closed almost 10 deg. C higher. Ok, install it. (BTW, removing the old and installing the new wasn't nearly as difficult as I remembered it.) I ran the car for more than 30 min with A/C on max and it never got hot enough to trip the switch (temp needle never got above the very low range of green. Guess that means my cooling system is in pretty good shape. So, haven't been able to fully test the switch, but I'm sure it's OK.

Wahler

Bruce Segal

Commentary: Bruce Segal: Wahler make a line of thermo switches that can be had in almost any temp range. Part numbers are 6010 92, 6010 88 etc, with the last two digits being the switch point. In Canada they can be obtained from most Bosch parts suppliers.

Fan Clutch SIII with plastic fan

SIII

JA-EAC-4751

Hayden 2765

Shield

Commentary: Shield: "Worked for 4.5 years, so far. Note that the Haynes manual indicates different bolt patterns - check yours before purchase."

SIII

JA-EAC-4751

Hayden 2705

Kroppe

Commentary: B.J. Kroppe: I installed a new fan clutch (Hayden 2705, specified for 1980 Buick LeSabre 350 cid) and it fits and works great. This is the "heavy duty" model. I don't know what makes it heavy duty, although the "light duty" does not look like the original Jaguar item, and the 2705 looks almost exactly like it.

SIII

JA-EAC-4751

1980 Buick 350

Charles Gaudi

Commentary: Charles Gaudi: "The clutch is a model for the 1980 buick 350 v-8. cost $22.95 u.s. It seems to have made things better.."

Fan Clutch

SIII

Imperial Automotive Products: Fan Clutch P/N
215049

Mark Bristow

Commentary: Mark Bristow: "I just installed, with ease an Imperial 215049 fan clutch for $29.99 from Parts America (formerly Western Auto). It is about 1/2 inch longer than the original Jag clutch, but there is still about 1" between Clutch and radiator. It works great. The 215049 is a stock item at Parts America and not a special order."
From John Klar: Imperial fan clutch #215018 which is the one that is called for but is about $50.00 more than the others suggested. The others were louder and I did find that objectionable. The metal 18 inch fan #220618 (Imperial) works fine.

SIII

NAPA 271305

Jim Warren

Fan Clutch and Fan (Only as a pair - the clutch and stock fan will not fit)

SIII

Imperial Automotive Products: Fan Clutch P/N
211043, and Fan P/N 0142 (as a pair)

Dan Fitch

Commentary: Dan Fitch "The new fan, a six-blade metal 18" unit, works great - noticeably more air at low RPM; however, a little noisy. The lesser number of blades makes a lower note which is more noticeable, especially when the tach is over 3,000. The clutch is a non-thermostatic (heavy duty cooling) version probably used for towing and heavy duty use. Since I live in hot Florida, this was my clutch of choice. You might be better advised to get the thermostatic one, especially if you have significant winter driving in mind. I was after lots of air flow all of the time. The thermostatic version is the standard unit for the Buick (and probably most larger GM models of the early 80's). I bought the units at a local parts store - both made by Imperial Automotive Products: Fan Clutch P/N 211043, and Fan P/N 0142." (ed. Note that while the Imperial clutch will bolt to the original fan, there is not enough clearance between the water pump and the radiator. If you just want to replace the clutch, use one of the options above. 5/29/98)

Fan blade

SIII

Imperial

Matt Kilgore

I thought I was going to be forced to replace the fan and clutch as an assembly even though my Jag fan clutch was o-k. I took them both to the parts store and found that I was able to use an IMPERIAL AUTOMOTIVE PRODUCTS # 220618 Fan for a fan clutch application $21.03 tax included, Discount auto parts. It bolted directly to the jag fan clutch, although it does protrude into the engine compartment slightly more @ 1/4 inch but no interference problems. There is noticeably more air movement and I cannot tell a difference in the noise output.

Water pump

SIII

Durst

Roger Homer

Heater Valve

SIII

C41051

Terry's

Hunt Dabney

Commentary: Hunt Dabney "FWIW, I bought a "real" heater valve from Terry's (I'm pretty sure). It was the larger, all metal one, expensive, but it forms an air-tight seal when closed, also has a very strong return spring and a fairly large vacuum solenoid. This is not the case for the valve that I replaced, which was plastic, very light return spring and smaller solenoid. Just some observations for selection criterion!"

SII or SIII

Pep Boys Factory Air 74612

Larry Lee

Commentary: Larry Lee: "(I) purchased one at Auto Zone for $11.99. It was listed under "Jaguar XJ6L with A/C" on their computer database. This is an all-plastic, direct-acting, normally open valve with 5/8" hose bibs. It sounds just like the valve you have listed as Factory Air No. 74803 (ed. Below). I have no idea why the number is different. I do not know if this valve would work on an SI, as there are significant differences in the earlier A/C system."

SIII

Pep Boys Factory Air 74803

David Quintana

Commentary: David Quintana: " Heater Control Valve--the late-model plastic type is available from Pep Boys, et al. One brand name is Factory Air, Part No. 74803. This black plastic is good looking and definitely superior to a metal type. The reference is to a Series III XJ6 or XJ40. Part is about $12 US."

SIII

Late model Jag plastic valve

Kirby Palm

Commentary: Kirby Palm: "Another option is to replace it with a Jaguar valve! The newer XJ's use a valve made entirely of plastic -- no metal at all -- and cost half what the Chevy valves cost. Although some people don't like plastic, the design of this valve is so superior that it is probably the most reliable choice."

SIII

'83 Olds Cutlass

Chad Bolles

Commentary: Chad Bolles: You should be able to blow air through it while holding it in your hand. The Jag is also normally open.

SIII

Carlos Madera

Commentary: Carlos Madera: "I had to replace the heater valve in the car, and found that Chevrolets of late 60's or early 70's use the exact same part."

NAPA 660-1024; TRAK H25-201

David Quintana

Commentary: David Quintana: "Heater Control Valve--For the Series I, the heater control valve is a closed-type. meaning you can't blow air through it when holding it in your hand--just the opposite of the SIII. NAPA has the part as 660-1024 for about $24 US. However, a 1970 to 1979 Chevy had the same valve; Trak Auto Part No. H25-201 was about $10 US."

Part	Series or Year	Jaguar #	Cross-reference	Data Source
Bellows	SIII	JA-DAC1994		jagspares@trump.net.au
	Commentary: We make them here, the cost would be $50.00 Australian dollars which is about $32.00 US, cost for airmail $$10.50 Aus.This same bellows also fits some Rolls Royce cars. Alan Howard jagspares@trump.net.au
	SIII	JA-DAC1994	Rolls Royce cruise control bellows	Tony Parkinson
	Commentary: Tony: The Rolls Royce part is the same and is 1/2 the price
Cruise Control Control Unit	SIII	DAC-4293 - Output transistor repair procedure	.	Bruce Segal
	Commentary: Bruce Segal <bruce_segal@decarie.com>: I'm not sure about the 82 xj6 module, however the slightly later ones have a common fault that is relatively easy to repair. Remove the circuit board and position it so that the cable is on your left, component side up. There are two transistors in the lower left corner, ZTX650 and ZTX750. These are the output drive transistors and can fail if there is any ground fault in the actuator or wiring to the actuator, including the brake cut-out switch. They can be replaced with originals ( Zetex, available through Digi-key http://www.digi-key.com) or Motorola MPS650 and MPS750 (also ZTX651, ZTX751, MPS651, MPS751). I've had good luck replacing these. Make sure you check for any shorts to ground before re-installing your "fixed"(control unit). Also be very careful on the transistor orientation. Your (control unit) might be different, however if you take it apart and find which transistors are connected to the cruise actuator these are the ones to replace.

Part

Series or Year

Jaguar #

Cross-reference

Data Source

Bellows

SIII

JA-DAC1994

jagspares@trump.net.au

Commentary: We make them here, the cost would be $50.00 Australian dollars which is about $32.00 US, cost for airmail $$10.50 Aus.This same bellows also fits some Rolls Royce cars. Alan Howard jagspares@trump.net.au

SIII

JA-DAC1994

Rolls Royce cruise control bellows

Tony Parkinson

Commentary: Tony: The Rolls Royce part is the same and is 1/2 the price

Cruise Control Control Unit

SIII

DAC-4293 - Output transistor repair procedure

Bruce Segal

Commentary: Bruce Segal <bruce_segal@decarie.com>: I'm not sure about the 82 xj6 module, however the slightly later ones have a common fault that is relatively easy to repair.
Remove the circuit board and position it so that the cable is on your left, component side up.

There are two transistors in the lower left corner, ZTX650 and ZTX750. These are the output drive transistors and can fail if there is any ground fault in the actuator or wiring to the actuator, including the brake cut-out switch. They can be replaced with originals ( Zetex, available through Digi-key http://www.digi-key.com) or Motorola MPS650 and MPS750 (also ZTX651, ZTX751, MPS651, MPS751). I've had good luck replacing these. Make sure you check for any shorts to ground before re-installing your "fixed"(control unit). Also be very careful on the transistor orientation.
Your (control unit) might be different, however if you take it apart and find which transistors are connected to the cruise actuator these are the ones to replace.

Part	Series or Year	Jaguar #	Cross-reference	Data Source
Alternator	SII/III		Bosch AL193X(remanufactured)	Gregory Wells
	Commentary: Gregory Wells: The AL193X is the Bosch part number for the rebuilt alternator. (AL = alternator, X = exchange, ie rebuilt part). Bosch Reman catalog says this is for XJ6 '79-87 but indicates it is a Bosch replacement of the OE Lucas alternator. From Herb Davis: I just finished installing a Bosch Alternator on my '87 Series III today, and wanted to pass along the information about this fitment. I was very surprised when my local import car parts dealer said that his book showed a Bosch rebuilt 90 amp alternator for the XJ6 as well as the Lucas item. I was dubious, and even questioned whether this was really intended for the XJ40, since some references consider the first XJ40's to be '87's (in the US that is - I know they were elsewhere), but he double-checked and the item was listed for as far back as at least '85 (I don't remember precisely). The alternator was the same price as the Lucas, and with the extra output I figured it was worth a try. Installation was the same as (absurdly awkward) the stock item, with the exception of the drivebelt. The case is either slightly larger than stock, or the mounting ears are not offset from the housing quite as far as the Lucas, but when the mounting bolts are installed the Bosch unit will not swing as close to the block as the Lucas and I couldn't get the belt over the pulley. Not wanting to head out in search of a longer belt I took the more difficult path of removing the mounting bolts, threading the belt over the pulley, and re-installing the bolts. Once on, the adjustability of the belt seems about the same as before, and I encounterd no other problems. The only minor modification I had to make was to drill out the hole in the primary wire lug - the B+ post is somewhat larger than the Lucas. The unit was supplied with a pulley. The model number is AL193X, and was about $250.00. Having a bolt-in fitment of a Bosch alternator had never crossed my mind, and I was considering the John's Cars GM alternator solution, so this was a very pleasant surprise and I wanted to pass this information along right away. It may be that this item is common knowledge on the list, but if not, I hope I stumbled onto something beneficial. Oh yeah- it does work. I only fired up the motor for a minute after the installaltion since I've got the car up off the ground for some serious suspension work, but the voltage came right up to a solid 14V at idle. If there are any problems, I'll pass it along to the list.
Alternator	SII/III		GM Alternator	Many
	Commentary: John's Cars supplies a bracket to fit the GM Alternator in. Much less expensive than a new Jag unit. Not that easy to replace, due to access. (See below for another opinion.)
Alternator	SII/III		GM Alternator	John Napoli
	Commentary: (GM) Alternator in a XJ6? Easiest job yet. First, remove air pump (later on, reinstall it carefully somewhere else). Next, get a GM Alternator - a small-case GM alternator instead of a large-case picks up about an inch of bonnet clearance, which could be important in many installations. The smaller diameter of this unit makes it fit better all around. All the mounting points are the same, and of course you will still need a double pulley. Now, install the alternator where the air pump used to be with the air pump hardware. You will have to cut a 1 7/8" or so spacer out of a piece of pipe (I used copper pipe) for the lower mount. The belt needed to be 31.5 inches long on my car (John Napoli update 4/28/98 - previously listed as longer). Seven bucks at Pep Boys. Connect the brass connectors from the Lucas alternator to the back of the GM alternator. You might have to open up one of the wire clips that hold the two heavy alternator leads to the frame for the wires to reach. Wire the jumper from the correct terminal of the side conector on the alternator to the main connector lug. The idiot light lead plugs into the other side terminal of the alternator. Rerun the lead around the compressor. I ground the top lug and the top of the 'banjo' bolt adjuster a bit for more bonnet clearance. With clay, I measured about 1/2" of clearance to the bonnet. Plenty -- maybe other alternator lug patterns would be better, though. Oh yeah, the bottom plate of the sheet steel bracket that the air pump/alternator bolts to needs a slight mod. At its front, it is a double steel plate. I trimmed the inner plate at 45 degrees with a cutoff tool. This helps the alternator swing closer to the cam cover, making it easier to install the belt. Harder to describe than to visualize -- you'll see what I mean. I also had to trim about 1/2" off the end of the banjo bolt adjuster. Car runs about 1 volt higher -- don't know why, but all GM alts seem to do this. Oh yeah, this unit was rebuilt for 100 amps. Good luck, John I have the following updates to the info regarding installing a GM alternator into an XJ6: 1. Using a small-case GM alternator instead of a large-case picks up about an inch of bonnet clearance, which could be important in many installations. The smaller diameter of this unit makes it fit better all around. All the mounting points are the same, and of course you will still need a double pulley. 2. The belt should be 31.5 inches long, not 32.5 inches. John [Ed. Make sure the pulleys are properly aligned, or you will rapisly wear out the belt.]
Blower Fan	SI		Everco M868 (Mods required)	Victor R. Breen
	Commentary: Victor R. Breen: Blower Fan Installation and Modification for XJ6 Series 1 71. The overall idea is to replace the two old one speed motors with new two speed motors. I also wanted to get rid of the resistor, (thus 2 speed motors), and use new Bosch relays and get rid of the Lucas. 1. Removed both Fans keeping track of which motor, housing and impeller went on which side. Both fans had seized bearings. Replacement Everco M868 motors (Everco Industries St. Louis MO 63133), 2 speed reversible which are close to original size. Took mount off of old motors, and filed down inside edges to fit new motors. Had to re drill hole in fan to make it fit the new motor shafts. This made the hole round in the fan, so to keep the shaft from spinning inside the fan, I fiberglassed a spacer with a 1/4 inch whole and a set screw on top of the fan. I actually glued the spacer on while the fan was on the old motor, and than removed the fan prior to the fiberglass hardening and than drilled the new hole after the whole thing had cured. This kept the alignment pretty good. Used another 1/4 inch spacer with set screw underneath fan to maintain proper anatomical distance from motor etc. 2. Took out resistor mounted on firewall, as motors have two speeds and resistor not needed. 3. Wired 2 Bosch relays instead of Lucas.. Used one relay for high speed and the other for low speed. I first found the 2 leads going into the two existing relays from the Fan switch inside the car. In my case the high was burned out and I had to track it backwards and found the cracked wires behind the battery box. Test the leads to make sure you have high and low switching power. (Spouse inside the car flipping the switch is a help). 4. Wired motors as per directions on motor. Note that directions enclosed in the box were different from those printed on the motor which were correct. The original Jaguar switch has low fan lead hot when the switch is on low, and has both low and high lead hot when the switch is on high. S&P said this was OK with the new motors, and on testing, it didn't seem to matter. 5. Unsure of what the two Lucas relays on the firewall were doing other than the fans (probably nothing), but took a new power source and put a 30 amp fuse in it to power the motors through the relays. I grounded both motors, and both relays to the firewall. 6. The only circuitry that worked in the original wiring that does not now is the connection which puts the fan on low whenever the air conditioning is turned on. I could still do this, but don't see a compelling reason to do so.
Brake/Stop light switch	SI	?	Repco (New Zealand, maybe elsewhere)	Mike Blomquist
	Commentary: Mike Blomquist (replying to John Littler): "Hi John, I've just had the same problem with the lights on my '72 Daimler Sovereign. In my case it was the switch. It's a lot of work digging up all the wiring, so I'd recommend changing the switch anyway (mine cost my about $US3.50 from Repco here in New Zealand). Good luck. ian ian@timemaster.co.nz 1972 Daimler Sovereign, who knows when she's stopping (and now tells everyone else too!) "
Brake/Stop light switch	SII	?	Micro Switch from Dick Smith Electronics (Australia version of Radio Shack)	Roger Homer
	Commentary: Roger Homer: "It seems that the Ser2 had 2 different types of switches, I've been told mine is the early type which looks like a little oblong black object, appx 1"Long, 1/2"wide & a bit over a 1/4" deep with a metal arm about 1 1/2" long. The replacement is identical except that that new arm is 1 1/4" long, but this is still plenty long enough to reach the pedal. There are 3 connections instead of the normal 2, labelled 'NO' 'NC' and 'COM' this I assume would be for the switch to be 'normally open' or 'normally closed' and 'common'. The orig one only had 2 switches 'NO' & 'COM'. All 3 are not quite 'fast on' connectors, by this I mean they are not as long as usual connections and have screw holes in the ends, but can be used as 'fast on'......at least I did...:-) "
Brake/Stop light switch	SIII	LU-33814	Switch from 1980 Pontiac Phoenix	Paul Weidner
	Commentary: Paul Weidner: "I replaced the brake light/cruise control switch mounted at the brake pedal with a switch from a 1980 GM Pontiac Phoenix (weekend emergency swap), these switches can be purchased for approx $3 and fit the jag mounting bracket, you only have to splice in one new connector. It corrected an intermittent problem I had with the cruise control not wanting to disengage when the brakes were hit."
Gardner/Napoli Switch	SIII, others?	Wasn't an OEM part there to begin with	KEHA/KEUR C1500A/C1500AA Dual Rocker Switch single unit - about $7/pc.	William "Chip" Lamb
	Commentary: William C.W. Lamb: "I have found the PERFECT solution to this quandary....a dual rocker switch which fits like a GLOVE in the master window switch opening." "It matches the switch gear perfectly - a concours judge would have a hard time saying it looked out of place". If you have trouble finding this switch at your local electronics store,emailChip - he may be able to help you get one.
Headlights left on buzzer	SI/II/III	Nope but there wasn't an OEM part to begin with!	K-Mart (!) part#400	Norman Angerhofer
	Commentary: Norman Angerhofer: "A couple of you have asked about the buzzer I used to remind me that lights were left on, so there are probably others who are also curious or in need of the same feature. I went to the local K-mart, not exactly a high-tech auto-parts connection! I suspect there will be equivalent units at auto-parts houses. They had a part called the "Headllights Left-On Reminder", part #400, and it cost me $3.97. It attaches to the fuse panel. Although the instructions did not work, I found a combination which worked. In my fuse-box I attached white lead to Instruments Panel Lamps fuse (#4 fuse), and touched red lead to another fuse until it buzzed with lights on and key out of ignition. There is an alternate set of instructions on the package for foreign cars if the above does not work for you. I mounted the buzzer outside of the fuse panel door, so it would be loud enough to hear. You may want to extend the leads to give you more choices for a better mounting place."
Exterior side marker lamp gasket	SI/II/III		Year One Incorporated	Paul Hibbs
	Commentary: I bought gasket material from "Year One Incorporated" 770-493-6568 / 4559 Granite Dr, Tucker, GA . They specialize in 1970's Chevy parts. It was a sheet of gray close-celled foam. I trimmed gaskets for all my bolt on accessories from it (lights, chrome, etc). So far is working fine with no problems.
Voltage Regulator	SIII	Lucas 15TR #37666A	15TR 37666D	Brian Rice
	Commentary: Brian Rice: "My 1984 XJ-6 Sovereign with an A133-75 Alternator and a 15TR Voltage Regulator had erratic intermittent charging. Sometimes voltage gauge would drop from normal 13V to 11.8V ..<snip>.. sometimes voltmeter would climb towards 18V and lights would glow brightly before I switched car off. Original voltage regulator was a Lucas 15TR #37666A with three wires and the case used to make connections to alternator Lucas A133-75 #24101D. Replacement part 15TR 37666D only has two wires and case used. Jaguar expert electrician explanation was that original voltage regulator sensed battery voltage and replacement voltage regulator senses alternator voltage so doesn't need the connection to +12V. >Connections are: Red = +12V (not used in replacement), Yellow = IND (alternator voltage via low power diodes) Case = Field brush and Black = ground or 0V. Replacement voltage regulator had a red pencil stripe on the potting mix presumably to indicate that red wire was not needed. Would have saved me heaps if Jaguar had provided a confirmation note. Lucas Parts supplier could not explain why replacement part (Lucas #UCB133) only had two wires (yellow and black) (cost A$27.30) so to be on the safe side I purchased a genuine Jaguar part (JLM 277 "Made to Jaguar Specification in Malaysia") (cost A$104.85) to be sure that part was compatible. Alternator now charges properly with voltage gauge sitting at 13.5V regardless of engine speed and electrical load."
Windshield Washer Pump	SIII		ANCO 61-15	John Taylor
	Commentary:John Taylor: "Hi, The washer pump on my 85 sIII died today. I would like to report that ANCO washer pump Stock no.61-15 "pops' into the mount location on the washer bottle and works just super. The origional Jaguar electrical connection will not fit and I replaced it with a pair spade contacts."
Window Lift Relay	SIII		Radio Shack #275-226	Jim Warren
	Commentary:Jim Warren: "Has anyone mentioned yet that Radio Shack has a generic auto electrical relay that is a direct replacement for the Jag window lift relay...and probably others? Same pins, and even the pin numbers are the same...and for you purists, it's made in England. Only $5.99 US. Radio Shack # 275-226..off the rack!"

Part

Series or Year

Jaguar #

Cross-reference

Data Source

Alternator

SII/III

Bosch AL193X(remanufactured)

Gregory Wells

Commentary: Gregory Wells: The AL193X is the Bosch part number for the rebuilt alternator. (AL = alternator, X = exchange, ie rebuilt part). Bosch Reman catalog says this is for XJ6 '79-87 but indicates it is a Bosch replacement of the OE Lucas alternator.
From Herb Davis: I just finished installing a Bosch Alternator on my '87 Series III today, and wanted to pass along the information about this fitment. I was very surprised when my local import car parts dealer said that his book showed a Bosch rebuilt 90 amp alternator for the XJ6 as well as the Lucas item. I was dubious, and even questioned whether this was really intended for the XJ40, since some references consider the first XJ40's to be '87's (in the US that is - I know they were elsewhere), but he double-checked and the item was listed for as far back as at least '85 (I don't remember precisely). The alternator was the same price as the Lucas, and with the extra output I figured it was worth a try. Installation was the same as (absurdly awkward) the stock item, with the exception of the drivebelt. The case is either slightly larger than stock, or the mounting ears are not offset from the housing quite as far as the Lucas, but when the mounting bolts are installed the Bosch unit will not swing as close to the block as the Lucas and I couldn't get the belt over the pulley. Not wanting to head out in search of a longer belt I took the more difficult path of removing the mounting bolts, threading the belt over the pulley, and re-installing the bolts. Once on, the adjustability of the belt seems about the same as before, and I encounterd no other problems. The only minor modification I had to make was to drill out the hole in the primary wire lug - the B+ post is somewhat larger than the Lucas. The unit was supplied with a pulley. The model number is AL193X, and was about $250.00. Having a bolt-in fitment of a Bosch alternator had never crossed my mind, and I was considering the John's Cars GM alternator solution, so this was a very pleasant surprise and I wanted to pass this information along right away. It may be that this item is common knowledge on the list, but if not, I hope I stumbled onto something beneficial. Oh yeah- it does work. I only fired up the motor for a minute after the installaltion since I've got the car up off the ground for some serious suspension work, but the voltage came right up to a solid 14V at idle. If there are any problems, I'll pass it along to the list.

Alternator

SII/III

GM Alternator

Many

Commentary: John's Cars supplies a bracket to fit the GM Alternator in. Much less expensive than a new Jag unit. Not that easy to replace, due to access. (See below for another opinion.)

Alternator

SII/III

GM Alternator

John Napoli

Commentary: (GM) Alternator in a XJ6? Easiest job yet. First, remove air pump (later on, reinstall it carefully somewhere else). Next, get a GM Alternator - a small-case GM alternator instead of a large-case picks up about an inch of bonnet clearance, which could be important in many installations. The smaller diameter of this unit makes it fit better all around. All the mounting points are the same, and of course you will still need a double pulley.

Now, install the alternator where the air pump used to be with the air pump hardware. You will have to cut a 1 7/8" or so spacer out of a piece of pipe (I used copper pipe) for the lower mount. The belt needed to be 31.5 inches long on my car (John Napoli update 4/28/98 - previously listed as longer). Seven bucks at Pep Boys.

Connect the brass connectors from the Lucas alternator to the back of the GM alternator. You might have to open up one of the wire clips that hold the two heavy alternator leads to the frame for the wires to reach. Wire the jumper from the correct terminal of the side conector on the alternator to the main connector lug.

The idiot light lead plugs into the other side terminal of the alternator. Rerun the lead around the compressor.
I ground the top lug and the top of the 'banjo' bolt adjuster a bit for more bonnet clearance. With clay, I measured about 1/2" of clearance to the bonnet. Plenty -- maybe other alternator lug patterns would be better, though.

Oh yeah, the bottom plate of the sheet steel bracket that the air pump/alternator bolts to needs a slight mod. At its front, it is a double steel plate. I trimmed the inner plate at 45 degrees with a cutoff tool. This helps the alternator swing closer to the cam cover, making it easier to install the belt. Harder to describe than to visualize -- you'll see what I mean. I also had to trim about 1/2" off the end of the banjo bolt adjuster.

Car runs about 1 volt higher -- don't know why, but all GM alts seem to do this. Oh yeah, this unit was rebuilt for 100 amps. Good luck, John I have the following updates to the info regarding installing a GM alternator into an XJ6: 1. Using a small-case GM alternator instead of a large-case picks up about an inch of bonnet clearance, which could be important in many installations. The smaller diameter of this unit makes it fit better all around. All the mounting points are the same, and of course you will still need a double pulley. 2. The belt should be 31.5 inches long, not 32.5 inches. John
[Ed. Make sure the pulleys are properly aligned, or you will rapisly wear out the belt.]

Blower Fan

Everco M868 (Mods required)

Victor R. Breen

Commentary: Victor R. Breen: Blower Fan Installation and Modification for XJ6 Series 1 71. The overall idea is to replace the two old one speed motors with new two speed motors. I also wanted to get rid of the resistor, (thus 2 speed motors), and use new Bosch relays and get rid of the Lucas.
1. Removed both Fans keeping track of which motor, housing and impeller went on which side. Both fans had seized bearings.

Replacement Everco M868 motors (Everco Industries St. Louis MO 63133), 2 speed reversible which are close to original size. Took mount off of old motors, and filed down inside edges to fit new motors. Had to re drill hole in fan to make it fit the new motor shafts. This made the hole round in the fan, so to keep the shaft from spinning inside the fan, I fiberglassed a spacer with a 1/4 inch whole and a set screw on top of the fan. I actually glued the spacer on while the fan was on the old motor, and than removed the fan prior to the fiberglass hardening and than drilled the new hole after the whole thing had cured. This kept the alignment pretty good. Used another 1/4 inch spacer with set screw underneath fan to maintain proper anatomical distance from motor etc.

2. Took out resistor mounted on firewall, as motors have two speeds and resistor not needed.

3. Wired 2 Bosch relays instead of Lucas.. Used one relay for high speed and the other for low speed. I first found the 2 leads going into the two existing relays from the Fan switch inside the car. In my case the high was burned out and I had to track it backwards and found the cracked wires behind the battery box. Test the leads to make sure you have high and low switching power. (Spouse inside the car flipping the switch is a help).

4. Wired motors as per directions on motor. Note that directions enclosed in the box were different from those printed on the motor which were correct. The original Jaguar switch has low fan lead hot when the switch is on low, and has both low and high lead hot when the switch is on high. S&P said this was OK with the new motors, and on testing, it didn't seem to matter.

5. Unsure of what the two Lucas relays on the firewall were doing other than the fans (probably nothing), but took a new power source and put a 30 amp fuse in it to power the motors through the relays. I grounded both motors, and both relays to the firewall.

6. The only circuitry that worked in the original wiring that does not now is the connection which puts the fan on low whenever the air conditioning is turned on. I could still do this, but don't see a compelling reason to do so.

Brake/Stop light switch

Repco (New Zealand, maybe elsewhere)

Mike Blomquist

Commentary: Mike Blomquist (replying to John Littler): "Hi John, I've just had the same problem with the lights on my '72 Daimler Sovereign. In my case it was the switch. It's a *lot* of work digging up all the wiring, so I'd recommend changing the switch anyway (mine cost my about $US3.50 from Repco here in New Zealand). Good luck. ian ian@timemaster.co.nz 1972 Daimler Sovereign, who knows when she's stopping (and now tells everyone else too!) "

Brake/Stop light switch

SII

Micro Switch from Dick Smith Electronics (Australia version of Radio Shack)

Roger Homer

Commentary: Roger Homer: "It seems that the Ser2 had 2 different types of switches, I've been told mine is the early type which looks like a little oblong black object, appx 1"Long, 1/2"wide & a bit over a 1/4" deep with a metal arm about 1 1/2" long. The replacement is identical except that that new arm is 1 1/4" long, but this is still plenty long enough to reach the pedal. There are 3 connections instead of the normal 2, labelled 'NO' 'NC' and 'COM' this I assume would be for the switch to be 'normally open' or 'normally closed' and 'common'. The orig one only had 2 switches 'NO' & 'COM'. All 3 are not quite 'fast on' connectors, by this I mean they are not as long as usual connections and have screw holes in the ends, but can be used as 'fast on'......at least I did...:-) "

Brake/Stop light switch

SIII

LU-33814

Switch from 1980 Pontiac Phoenix

Paul Weidner

Commentary: Paul Weidner: "I replaced the brake light/cruise control switch mounted at the brake pedal with a switch from a 1980 GM Pontiac Phoenix (weekend emergency swap), these switches can be purchased for approx $3 and fit the jag mounting bracket, you only have to splice in one new connector. It corrected an intermittent problem I had with the cruise control not wanting to disengage when the brakes were hit."

Gardner/Napoli Switch

SIII, others?

Wasn't an OEM part there to begin with

KEHA/KEUR C1500A/C1500AA Dual Rocker Switch single unit - about $7/pc.

William "Chip" Lamb

Commentary: William C.W. Lamb: "I have found the PERFECT solution to this quandary....a dual rocker switch which fits like a GLOVE in the master window switch opening." "It matches the switch gear perfectly - a concours judge would have a hard time saying it looked out of place".

If you have trouble finding this switch at your local electronics store,emailChip - he may be able to help you get one.

Headlights left on buzzer

SI/II/III

Nope but there wasn't an OEM part to begin with!

K-Mart (!) part#400

Norman Angerhofer

Commentary: Norman Angerhofer: "A couple of you have asked about the buzzer I used to remind me that lights were left on, so there are probably others who are also curious or in need of the same feature.

I went to the local K-mart, not exactly a high-tech auto-parts connection! I suspect there will be equivalent units at auto-parts houses. They had a part called the "Headllights Left-On Reminder", part #400, and it cost me $3.97. It attaches to the fuse panel.

Although the instructions did not work, I found a combination which worked. In my fuse-box I attached white lead to Instruments Panel Lamps fuse (#4 fuse), and touched red lead to another fuse until it buzzed with lights on and key out of ignition. There is an alternate set of instructions on the package for foreign cars if the above does not work for you.

I mounted the buzzer outside of the fuse panel door, so it would be loud enough to hear. You may want to extend the leads to give you more choices for a better mounting place."

Exterior side marker lamp gasket

SI/II/III

Year One Incorporated

Paul Hibbs

Commentary: I bought gasket material from "Year One Incorporated" 770-493-6568 / 4559 Granite Dr, Tucker, GA . They specialize in 1970's Chevy parts. It was a sheet of gray close-celled foam. I trimmed gaskets for all my bolt on accessories from it (lights, chrome, etc). So far is working fine with no problems.

Voltage Regulator

SIII

Lucas 15TR #37666A

15TR 37666D

Brian Rice

Commentary: Brian Rice: "My 1984 XJ-6 Sovereign with an A133-75 Alternator and a 15TR Voltage Regulator had erratic intermittent charging. Sometimes voltage gauge would drop from normal 13V to 11.8V ..<snip>.. sometimes voltmeter would climb towards 18V and lights would glow brightly before I switched car off.

Original voltage regulator was a Lucas 15TR #37666A with three wires and the case used to make connections to alternator Lucas A133-75 #24101D. Replacement part 15TR 37666D only has two wires and case used. Jaguar expert electrician explanation was that original voltage regulator sensed battery voltage and replacement voltage regulator senses alternator voltage so doesn't need the connection to +12V.

>Connections are: Red = +12V (not used in replacement), Yellow = IND (alternator voltage via low power diodes) Case = Field brush and Black = ground or 0V. Replacement voltage regulator had a red pencil stripe on the potting mix presumably to indicate that red wire was not needed. Would have saved me heaps if Jaguar had provided a confirmation note. Lucas Parts supplier could not explain why replacement part (Lucas #UCB133) only had two wires (yellow and black) (cost A$27.30) so to be on the safe side I purchased a genuine Jaguar part (JLM 277 "Made to Jaguar Specification in Malaysia") (cost A$104.85) to be sure that part was compatible. Alternator now charges properly with voltage gauge sitting at 13.5V regardless of engine speed and electrical load."

Windshield Washer Pump

SIII

ANCO 61-15

John Taylor

Commentary:John Taylor: "Hi, The washer pump on my 85 sIII died today. I would like to report that ANCO washer pump Stock no.61-15 "pops' into the mount location on the washer bottle and works just super. The origional Jaguar electrical connection will not fit and I replaced it with a pair spade contacts."

Window Lift Relay

SIII

Radio Shack #275-226

Jim Warren

Commentary:Jim Warren: "Has anyone mentioned yet that Radio Shack has a generic auto electrical relay that is a direct replacement for the Jag window lift relay...and probably others? Same pins, and even the pin numbers are the same...and for you purists, it's made in England. Only $5.99 US. Radio Shack # 275-226..off the rack!"

Part	Series or Year	Jaguar #	Cross-reference	Data Source
Oil Pressure Switch	SI/II/III after '76.5	C42200	MGB 1978-79 oil pressure switch	Jim Isbell
	Commentary:Jim Isbell: "Cost is $4.99 while jag replacement is $60. May have to replace it more often, but I'll bet I won't have to replace it 12 times as often!!"
Oil Pressure Gauge Sending Unit	SI/II/III after '76.5	C46272	NAPA - Part # OP 6095	Jeff (aka CARFINDR)
	Commentary:Jeff: "I did manage to find a replacement, although I didn't end up having to buy it. It is from NAPA - Part # OP 6095. Looks a little different to the original, but will fit perfectly. My cost was $34 - but I think it retails around $42."
Oil pan washers	SIII, XJS, XJ40		XJ6 SIII, XJS part # is EBC4896; XJ40 part # is EBC9044	Michael Neal; Ken
	Commentary: Michael Neal: "a metal washer with a type of silicone rubber bonded to the inside. They are reusable and last for several years. These are seals for the banjo bolts on the trans cooler lines and they are worth the $4. The later XJ40s came with these updated seals." Per Ken: "One can get almost any size desired from King Bearing."
Rear Main Oil Seal	SI/II/III		Napa JV-730	Chad Bolles
	Commentary: Date: Sat, 31 May 1997 16:16:46 -0500 From: jaguar@clynx.com Subject: [xj] [XK Engine] Rear Main Oil Seal Installation Mr. Kroppe: Save yourself time and go to NAPA and ask for the rear main seal for a 460 Ford engine, if I remember right it is already impregnated with a graphite material, also a better seal. A little longer than the stock seal so you will have to trim it. NAPA part No JV-730. As far as the sizing tool, good luck. Never have used one and have so far had no leaks, and I build engines all the time. I always take the seal and lay on a flat working surface then take a small hammer and make it look like this >. When shaped so it will fit the seal track with ease. Start on one side of the track, leaving a small amount of seal sticking out of the block or cap, now with the handle of the small hammer start working the seal into the track. When you get to the other side trim off the excess, but leave a VERY small amount extra. I also coat the seal track with a nonhardening gasket sealer NOT SILICONE. You might want to practice on another seal first. Chad Bolles Jaguar Performance,Inc 306 Valcour Rd Columbia SC 29212 USA 803-798-3044
Thermostat	All		Waxstat	Michael Neal
	Commentary: Michael Neal: "use the Jaguar replacement Waxstat brand, none other"

Part

Series or Year

Jaguar #

Cross-reference

Data Source

Oil Pressure Switch

SI/II/III after '76.5

C42200

MGB 1978-79 oil pressure switch

Jim Isbell

Commentary:Jim Isbell: "Cost is $4.99 while jag replacement is $60. May have to replace it more often, but I'll bet I won't have to replace it 12 times as often!!"

Oil Pressure Gauge Sending Unit

SI/II/III after '76.5

C46272

NAPA - Part # OP 6095

Jeff (aka CARFINDR)

Commentary:Jeff: "I did manage to find a replacement, although I didn't end up having to buy it. It is from NAPA - Part # OP 6095. Looks a little different to the original, but will fit perfectly. My cost was $34 - but I think it retails around $42."

Oil pan washers

SIII, XJS, XJ40

XJ6 SIII, XJS part # is EBC4896;
XJ40 part # is EBC9044

Michael Neal; Ken

Commentary: Michael Neal: "a metal washer with a type of silicone rubber bonded to the inside. They are reusable and last for several years. These are seals for the banjo bolts on the trans cooler lines and they are worth the $4. The later XJ40s came with these updated seals."

Per Ken: "One can get almost any size desired from King Bearing."

Rear Main Oil Seal

SI/II/III

Napa JV-730

Chad Bolles

Commentary: Date: Sat, 31 May 1997 16:16:46 -0500 From: jaguar@clynx.com Subject: [xj] [XK Engine] Rear Main Oil Seal Installation
Mr. Kroppe: Save yourself time and go to NAPA and ask for the rear main seal for a 460 Ford engine, if I remember right it is already impregnated with a graphite material, also a better seal. A little longer than the stock seal so you will have to trim it. NAPA part No JV-730. As far as the sizing tool, good luck. Never have used one and have so far had no leaks, and I build engines all the time. I always take the seal and lay on a flat working surface then take a small hammer and make it look like this >. When shaped so it will fit the seal track with ease. Start on one side of the track, leaving a small amount of seal sticking out of the block or cap, now with the handle of the small hammer start working the seal into the track. When you get to the other side trim off the excess, but leave a VERY small amount extra. I also coat the seal track with a nonhardening gasket sealer NOT SILICONE. You might want to practice on another seal first.

Chad Bolles Jaguar Performance,Inc 306 Valcour Rd Columbia SC 29212 USA 803-798-3044

Thermostat

All

Waxstat

Michael Neal

Commentary: Michael Neal: "use the Jaguar replacement Waxstat brand, none other"

Part	Series or Year	Jaguar #	Cross-reference	Data Source
Air flow meter sleeve	SIII	JA-EAC6780	tbd
	Commentary: Hunt Dabney:This part needs to be very flexible, so as to physically isolate the Air Flow Meter from the motor vibrations. A stiff coupling to the motor can result in a poor idle caused by the shaking AFM.
Air Injection Pump (Smog Pump)	SIII	C40103 (SI/II), JA-EAC3645 (SIII metric fittings)	Standard GM	Andrew Sandiforth
	Commentary: Andrew Sandiforth: "The smog pump is a standard GM part. I paid $34 recon'ed. Only change I needed to make was the size of one of the mounting bolts. Any parts house should have what you need. Take the old one (including the bolts) so the counter guy can get the numbers off it." Andrew
Airflow meter		JA-EAC3821 = 73172 Lucas	Bosch 0280 203 006	Bosch/Lucas dealer
	Commentary:
Airflow meter mounts		SIII, SII?	Harley Davidson # 52192-86A	Tom Golodik
	Commentary:For those of you who want them and don't want to have to drag the parts guy out to your car, you're looking for (Harley Davidson) Part # 52192-86A, an isolator kit for the 86-89 FLT models with the Tour-Pak cover and passenger backrest. The old style, while not exactly matching the Jaguar part, did look like it. The new one is a solid chuck of rubber tube (without the Jaguar part's waist in the middle) with studs extending from the ends.I haven't yet had the chance to install it, but it does look like it will fit. The new part is relatively recent. You might trot down to your local Harley place and find they still have a couple of the old style in stock. Buy them now. I still need two more.... Regards, Tom Golodik
Airflow meter mounts		SIII, SII?	Harley Davidson # 6256365	Kirby Palm
	Commentary:I just happened to pick up the following tip for EFI XJ6's and decided to pass it on -- but I don't even know exactly which cars it applies to. For all I know, it may be common knowledge here already, but if not maybe it'll help someone. The airflow sensor on EFI cars is supported by three "Metalastic" mounts, a chunk of rubber with a stud on each end. Reportedly, ordering replacement supports from Jaguar requires opening a vein. However, similar parts are used on Harley Davidson motorcycles. For about $3 each, you can buy them at any motorcycle shop that carries HD parts. The mounts are HD part number 6256365. -- Kirbert
Air pump check valve	?	C-34017	Carquest, pt # AV7 or NAPA, pt#2-2900	Chuck
	Commentary: PTS exch/ availability: air pump check valve Jag pt #C-34017 is available at Carquest, pt # AV7 for $20 retail, NAPA, pt#2-2900 for $25 retail. Chuck
Aux. Air Valve to 8L.98550 ('81)		LU-73174	.
	Commentary:
Aux. Air Valve from 8L.98551 ('81)		LU-73212	.
	Commentary:
Catalytic Converter	SIII		Warning: Some assembly required (!).	Chuck TmcGroup
	Commentary: I've found a replacement for the original forward catalytic converter. I priced catalytic converters from $900.00 to $400.00 but have found a cheap alternative. If you have welding and fabricating skills, you can use the following: Mfg: Carsound, part number 22004, "universal catalytic converter". Requires welding and cutting skill. It is a tight fit as the original is short but this unit does fit. You reuse the original 2 into 1 section as well as the outlet section. The price from a local muffler shop here in Los Angeles was $79.95. I made a fixture based upon my original catalytic system. If anyone is interested, I can (if they send me the original assembly), cut out the original and weld in the new unit. They can just e-mail me for more info. Hope this helps Chuck TmcGroup TmcGroup@aol.com
Cold start injector		LU-73180	Bosch 0280 170 028
	Commentary:
Cold start relay	SIII	LU-SRB304	Bosch 0 332 019 151 12V 30A	Jim D.
	Commentary: Jim D.: "Given previous experience of the value of scraping contacts, and the importance of the cold start relay, I called my local parts supplier. They had a Bosch relay for US$9. Note that the original part would have come in a little green Jag box, this was in a yellow Bosch box. For David's X-Ref list my original cold start relay is also from Bosch and bore the numbers "0 332 014 113 12V 30A" on it's top surface. The new Bosch relay bears the numbers "0 332 019 151 12V 30A" (David, the top of the box also had SRB304 hand-written on it.)"
Control Unit	'78-'81	03-133524	pending
	Commentary:
Control Unit '82-on	'82-on	03-133637	pending
	Commentary:
Diode Units (Red Pektron on firewall)	SIII	JA-DAC1861	pending
	Commentary: Jim Warren:" I [replaced] a fried diode in that red "pektron" thingy on the firewall with one from Radio Shack. Set me back $.59/pr. I still don't know what it does, but it was fried."
EGR Valve	SI		Triumph TR6 EGR Valve	Jeff (missed his last name - sorry!)
	Commentary: Jeff (last name?): I too had a stuck EGR valve on my '76 XJ6 - I too was quoted $ 238 for a replacement. I was at Carlise Import car show and saw an EGR valve off a Triumph (TR6 I belive) It looked Identical - so I took it home - inspected it and it WAS IDENTICAL so I fitted it on the jag - Problem solved, car sailed throough emmisions. I paid $1 for the used EGR but the "Victoria catalogue" sells brand new Triumph ones for about $20 I believe. This is one occasion when Jaguar is ripping people off -BIG TIME!
Fuel Pump (carburated)	SII	JA-CAC3551 (RH) JA-CAC3552 (LH)	GM - Chevy Vega fuel pump (same for both tanks). A usable gasket is Napa 1093.	Jim Cantrell, Larry Lee, William "Chip" Lamb
	Commentary: Jim Cantrell: I have a 76 XJ6C which had a set of bad fuel pumps (carburetor). These are the types that mount from the front and are submersible. Upon removing them, I recognized them as units similar to that used on a 72-77 chev. vega. I had a spare one on my shelf and even the GM Delco part numbers matched. You can buy a new one for $22 (aftermarket) and they are a direct replacement for the old one sold by Jaguar for over $200. Larry Lee: If anyone is interested, Auto Zone lists the pump as E3900 Electric Fuel Pump, #279349. The strainer ($2.99) is FS101 Fuel Pump Strainer, #362301. The new strainers were NOT attached to the pumps when I bought them. They are purchased separately. The strainer is a friction fit onto the inlet nipple of the pump. Two small dimples on the strainer fitting help hold it in place. A rubber cover that fits on the end of the pump covers the nipple. It comes off easily. Then pull the strainer off, if possible. If it is stuck, cut the strainer off carefully so as not to damage the plastic pump nipple beneath. A usable gasket is NAPA Part No. 1093. NAPA calls it a THM SEAL (transmission?). I paid 99 cents each. As I noted in previous posts, this is not an exact match for the original, but the I.D. and thickness are right, and it has worked well for me.
Fuel Pump relay '78-79		LU-33394	Bosch 0332 514 121	Bosch/Lucas dealer
	Commentary: (common relay)
Fuel pump relay '80-on		LU-SRB304	Bosch (8787-type)	John Littler:
	Commentary: John Littler:If the pumps don't come on when you hit the key, replace the fuel pump relay (from left to right, red is the diode (pack), middle is the main relay, right is the pump relay, main and pump relay are identical small black Bosch units. On your symptoms I'd suggest it's a good possibility that it's failed. You could try swapping the main and pump relays - if the pump relay is stuffed and the main relay OK, when they are swapped the car should fire and then die (try holding the accelerator flat to the floor when you crank it.) If they are BOTH stuffed then you won't prove anything, long odds though. I'd buy one new to be sure - they're cheap - $10-15 use the Bosch number on the top, be aware that the part number has incremented by one from the original (just make sure the little diagram has 8787 on the top right not 8787A). If that doesn't work the failure of the coolant temp sensor was one of the two problems causing mine to not start (pump relay being the other).
Injector	SIII	LU-73179	Bosch 0280150151	Shield
	Commentary: Shield: Replace seals at the same time.
Injector seals			Standard Motors SK-3	Napoli
	Commentary: John Napoli: I HAD found a generic part number for the injector o-rings. Standard Motor Parts SK-3 does the trick -- handles four injectors (eight rings -- 4 big and 4 little) for less than $4.00 US. Works for me.
O2 Sensor	'78-81	LU73211	Bosch 11051 (old number 0258001051)	Bosch/Lucas dealer
	Commentary:
			Bosch universal O2 sensor 11025	Brian Sherwood (replacing O2 sensor on XJS, which shows same Lucas part # as XJ6)
	Commentary: Brian Sherwood: BTW- I also replaced both (ed. this post is about XJS, but the O2 sensor is identical) Oxygen sensors this week- used Bosch universal sensor p/n 11025 - cost 20 dollars each at the local discount parts place! They also work great."
	O2 sensor SIII '81-'86, 1-wire	LU73210	Bosch 11035 (old number 0258001035)	Shield, John Albrecht
	Commentary: Shield: "No problem - Bosch part works fine." Albrecht: "Bosch 11035 - $28.99 USD at AutoZone."
	O2 sensor SIII 3-wire 1987	JA-JLM2037	Bosch 13032 -or- Bosch 13931 (old number 02580032)	Bosch/Lucas Dealer, Tom Bernett, Craig
	Commentary: 1. Bosch 13032 will supercede to Bosch 13931 - Bosch/Lucas dealer. 2. The 3032 is $80 to $200 USD in auto parts stores. Tom Bernett. 3. As low as $75 USD. Craig.
Pressure regulator to 8L.139876 ('83)		LU-73177	Bosch 0280 160 200	Bosch/Lucas dealer
	Commentary:
Pressure Reg. From 8L.139877 ('83-on)		JA-EAC4864	Bosch 0280 160 214	Bosch/Lucas dealer
	Commentary:
Thermal Switch	SIII	JA-EAC3762	pending
	Commentary:
Thermo-time switch '78-85		LU-SEB119	Bosch 0280 130 220	Bosch/Lucas dealer
	Commentary:
Vacuum Regulator	SIII	.	Napa CRB 2990	Paul Spitzer
	Commentary:Paul Spitzer: Looks like this is a successful replacement piece on the series III 6 cyl. EFI cars - The vaccuum regulator that lives under the intake manifold marked carb, dist, delay, was used on '79-'80 6-cyl Cheys. I always wondered as the Jag part says made in USA. The NAPA part # CRB 2990 is an exact replacement except for having the Jag # on it. The cost is $ 35.17 US. This is appx. half what I've seen for the Jag piece. The time the NAPA guy took to go through his catalogues to match this up was appreciated as the Jag # meant nothing to his computer. FWIW a past discovery owing to this hose not even being shown in many of the Jag suppliers catalogues is Gates # 18814 which is the hose from the back of the auxiliary air valve to the underside of the intake manifold. The hose has to be cut a bit but the molded bends come very close to the pattern of the original. Hope this helps.
Water temp sensor '78-85		LU-SNB802	Bosch 0280 130 023	Bosch/Lucas dealer

Part

Series or Year

Jaguar #

Cross-reference

Data Source

Air flow meter sleeve

SIII

JA-EAC6780

tbd

Commentary: Hunt Dabney:This part needs to be very flexible, so as to physically isolate the Air Flow Meter from the motor vibrations. A stiff coupling to the motor can result in a poor idle caused by the shaking AFM.

Air Injection Pump (Smog Pump)

SIII

C40103 (SI/II), JA-EAC3645 (SIII metric fittings)

Standard GM

Andrew Sandiforth

Commentary: Andrew Sandiforth: "The smog pump is a standard GM part. I paid $34 recon'ed. Only change I needed to make was the size of one of the mounting bolts. Any parts house should have what you need. Take the old one (including the bolts) so the counter guy can get the numbers off it." Andrew

Airflow meter

JA-EAC3821 = 73172 Lucas

Bosch 0280 203 006

Bosch/Lucas dealer

Commentary:

Airflow meter mounts

SIII, SII?

Harley Davidson # 52192-86A

Tom Golodik

Commentary:For those of you who want them and don't want to have to drag the parts guy out to your car, you're looking for (Harley Davidson) Part # 52192-86A, an isolator kit for the 86-89 FLT models with the Tour-Pak cover and passenger backrest. The old style, while not exactly matching the Jaguar part, did look like it. The new one is a solid chuck of rubber tube (without the Jaguar part's waist in the middle) with studs extending from the ends.I haven't yet had the chance to install it, but it does look like it will fit. The new part is relatively recent. You might trot down to your local Harley place and find they still have a couple of the old style in stock. Buy them now. I still need two more.... Regards, Tom Golodik

Airflow meter mounts

SIII, SII?

Harley Davidson # 6256365

Kirby Palm

Commentary:I just happened to pick up the following tip for EFI XJ6's and decided to pass it on -- but I don't even know exactly which cars it applies to. For all I know, it may be common knowledge here already, but if not maybe it'll help someone.

The airflow sensor on EFI cars is supported by three "Metalastic" mounts, a chunk of rubber with a stud on each end. Reportedly, ordering replacement supports from Jaguar requires opening a vein. However, similar parts are used on Harley Davidson motorcycles. For about $3 each, you can buy them at any motorcycle shop that carries HD parts. The mounts are HD part number 6256365. -- Kirbert

Air pump check valve

C-34017

Carquest, pt # AV7 or NAPA, pt#2-2900

Chuck

Commentary: PTS exch/ availability: air pump check valve Jag pt #C-34017 is available at Carquest, pt # AV7 for $20 retail, NAPA, pt#2-2900 for $25 retail. Chuck

Aux. Air Valve to 8L.98550 ('81)

LU-73174

Commentary:

Aux. Air Valve from 8L.98551 ('81)

LU-73212

Commentary:

Catalytic Converter

SIII

Warning: Some assembly required (!).

Chuck TmcGroup

Commentary: I've found a replacement for the original forward catalytic converter. I priced catalytic converters from $900.00 to $400.00 but have found a cheap alternative. If you have welding and fabricating skills, you can use the following: Mfg: Carsound, part number 22004, "universal catalytic converter". Requires welding and cutting skill. It is a tight fit as the original is short but this unit does fit. You reuse the original 2 into 1 section as well as the outlet section. The price from a local muffler shop here in Los Angeles was $79.95. I made a fixture based upon my original catalytic system. If anyone is interested, I can (if they send me the original assembly), cut out the original and weld in the new unit. They can just e-mail me for more info. Hope this helps Chuck TmcGroup TmcGroup@aol.com

Cold start injector

LU-73180

Bosch 0280 170 028

Commentary:

Cold start relay

SIII

LU-SRB304

Bosch 0 332 019 151 12V 30A

Jim D.

Commentary: Jim D.: "Given previous experience of the value of scraping contacts, and the importance of the cold start relay, I called my local parts supplier. They had a Bosch relay for US$9. Note that the original part would have come in a little green Jag box, this was in a yellow Bosch box. For David's X-Ref list my original cold start relay is also from Bosch and bore the numbers
"0 332 014 113 12V 30A" on it's top surface. The new Bosch relay bears the numbers "0 332 019 151 12V 30A" (David, the top of the box also had SRB304 hand-written on it.)"

Control Unit

'78-'81

03-133524

pending

Commentary:

Control Unit '82-on

'82-on

03-133637

pending

Commentary:

Diode Units (Red Pektron on firewall)

SIII

JA-DAC1861

pending

Commentary: Jim Warren:" I [replaced] a fried diode in that red "pektron" thingy on the firewall with one from Radio Shack. Set me back $.59/pr. I still don't know what it does, but it was fried."

EGR Valve

Triumph TR6 EGR Valve

Jeff (missed his last name - sorry!)

Commentary: Jeff (last name?): I too had a stuck EGR valve on my '76 XJ6 - I too was quoted $ 238 for a replacement. I was at Carlise Import car show and saw an EGR valve off a Triumph (TR6 I belive) It looked Identical - so I took it home - inspected it and it WAS IDENTICAL so I fitted it on the jag - Problem solved, car sailed throough emmisions. I paid $1 for the used EGR but the "Victoria catalogue" sells brand new Triumph ones for about $20 I believe. This is one occasion when Jaguar is ripping people off -BIG TIME!

Fuel Pump (carburated)

SII

JA-CAC3551 (RH)

JA-CAC3552 (LH)

GM - Chevy Vega fuel pump (same for both tanks). A usable gasket is Napa 1093.

Jim Cantrell, Larry Lee, William "Chip" Lamb

Commentary: Jim Cantrell: I have a 76 XJ6C which had a set of bad fuel pumps (carburetor). These are the types that mount from the front and are submersible. Upon removing them, I recognized them as units similar to that used on a 72-77 chev. vega. I had a spare one on my shelf and even the GM Delco part numbers matched. You can buy a new one for $22 (aftermarket) and they are a direct replacement for the old one sold by Jaguar for over $200.

Larry Lee: If anyone is interested, Auto Zone lists the pump as E3900 Electric Fuel Pump, #279349. The strainer ($2.99) is FS101 Fuel Pump Strainer, #362301. The new strainers were NOT attached to the pumps when I bought them. They are purchased separately. The strainer is a friction fit onto the inlet nipple of the pump. Two small dimples on the strainer fitting help hold it in place. A rubber cover that fits on the end of the pump covers the nipple. It comes off easily. Then pull the strainer off, if possible. If it is stuck, cut the strainer off carefully so as not to damage the plastic pump nipple beneath.

A usable gasket is NAPA Part No. 1093. NAPA calls it a THM SEAL (transmission?). I paid 99 cents each. As I noted in previous posts, this is not an exact match for the original, but the I.D. and thickness are right, and it has worked well for me.

Fuel Pump relay '78-79

LU-33394

Bosch 0332 514 121

Bosch/Lucas dealer

Commentary: (common relay)

Fuel pump relay '80-on

LU-SRB304

Bosch (8787-type)

John Littler:

Commentary: John Littler:If the pumps don't come on when you hit the key, *replace* the fuel pump relay (from left to right, red is the diode (pack), middle is the main relay, right is the pump relay, main and pump relay are identical small black Bosch units. On your symptoms I'd suggest it's a good possibility that it's failed. You could try swapping the main and pump relays - if the pump relay is stuffed and the main relay OK, when they are swapped the car should fire and then die (try holding the accelerator flat to the floor when you crank it.) If they are BOTH stuffed then you won't prove anything, long odds though. I'd buy one new to be sure - they're cheap - $10-15 use the Bosch number on the top, be aware that the part number has incremented by one from the original (just make sure the little diagram has 8787 on the top right not 8787A). If that doesn't work the failure of the coolant temp sensor was one of the two problems causing mine to not start (pump relay being the other).

Injector

SIII

LU-73179

Bosch 0280150151

Shield

Commentary: Shield: Replace seals at the same time.

Injector seals

Standard Motors SK-3

Napoli

Commentary: John Napoli: I HAD found a generic part number for the injector o-rings. Standard Motor Parts SK-3 does the trick -- handles four injectors (eight rings -- 4 big and 4 little) for less than $4.00 US. Works for me.

O2 Sensor

'78-81

LU73211

Bosch 11051 (old number 0258001051)

Bosch/Lucas dealer

Commentary:

Bosch universal O2 sensor 11025

Brian Sherwood (replacing O2 sensor on XJS, which shows same Lucas part # as XJ6)

Commentary: Brian Sherwood: BTW- I also replaced both (ed. this post is about XJS, but the O2 sensor is identical) Oxygen sensors this week- used Bosch universal sensor p/n 11025 - cost 20 dollars each at the local discount parts place! They also work great."

O2 sensor SIII '81-'86, 1-wire

LU73210

Bosch 11035 (old number 0258001035)

Shield, John Albrecht

Commentary: Shield: "No problem - Bosch part works fine."
Albrecht: "Bosch 11035 - $28.99 USD at AutoZone."

O2 sensor SIII 3-wire 1987

JA-JLM2037

Bosch 13032 -or- Bosch 13931 (old number 02580032)

Bosch/Lucas Dealer, Tom Bernett, Craig

Commentary: 1. Bosch 13032 will supercede to Bosch 13931 - Bosch/Lucas dealer.
2. The 3032 is $80 to $200 USD in auto parts stores. Tom Bernett. 3. As low as $75 USD. Craig.

Pressure regulator to 8L.139876 ('83)

LU-73177

Bosch 0280 160 200

Bosch/Lucas dealer

Commentary:

Pressure Reg. From 8L.139877 ('83-on)

JA-EAC4864

Bosch 0280 160 214

Bosch/Lucas dealer

Commentary:

Thermal Switch

SIII

JA-EAC3762

pending

Commentary:

Thermo-time switch '78-85

LU-SEB119

Bosch 0280 130 220

Bosch/Lucas dealer

Commentary:

Vacuum Regulator

SIII

Napa CRB 2990

Paul Spitzer

Commentary:Paul Spitzer: Looks like this is a successful replacement piece on the series III 6 cyl. EFI cars - The vaccuum regulator that lives under the intake manifold marked carb, dist, delay, was used on '79-'80 6-cyl Cheys. I always wondered as the Jag part says made in USA. The NAPA part # CRB 2990 is an exact replacement except for having the Jag # on it. The cost is $ 35.17 US. This is appx. half what I've seen for the Jag piece. The time the NAPA guy took to go through his catalogues to match this up was appreciated as the Jag # meant nothing to his computer. FWIW a past discovery owing to this hose not even being shown in many of the Jag suppliers catalogues is Gates # 18814 which is the hose from the back of the auxiliary air valve to the underside of the intake manifold. The hose has to be cut a bit but the molded bends come very close to the pattern of the original. Hope this helps.

Water temp sensor '78-85

LU-SNB802

Bosch 0280 130 023

Bosch/Lucas dealer

Part	Series or Year	Jaguar #	Cross-reference	Data Source
Amplifier	SI/II/III '75-on Constant Energy Ignition (earlier were not always converted to CEI)	LU-DAB102	GMHEI	Gregory Price, David Shield, Stefan Knappe
	Commentary:Gregory Price: "The GM HEI electronic ignition module DOES work on my '85 SIII XJ6. I've done no formal testing to make sure it reacts properly in every possible performance scenario, but it runs. I don't present this as an ultimate replacement, but if your Lucas amplifier dies, then you can use a GM unit as a short term (and low cost, US $13.99) solution to hold you over until your (US $240.00) Lucas unit arrives. Note that the GM amp by itself does not function flawlessly. The other two electrical components in the OEM amp assembly serve to smooth the idle and low-RPM operation. Using the GM module by itself will result in stumbling, erratic idle and poor off-the-line performance." Shield: " Open the Lucas ignition amplifier box and you'll find an honest-to-gosh GM ignition module. Take it to the parts store and ask for one like it. You'll get a choice between a no-name one for cheap, or a better name for a little more. Pay a little more - you don't want this failing on you." Stefan Knappe: "The ignition amplifier is also identical to the Rover >3500 SD1 unit / MY '83 onwards. I have used a Rover unit successfully on a former XJ6 SIII of mine.
Amplifier	SI/II/III '75-on Constant Energy Ignition (earlier were not always converted to CEI)	LU-DAB102	GMHEI 10482820	AJ Elliot, Stefan Knappe
	Commentary:AJ Elliot: I have been using the Beck Arnley version and it lasts about 12000 miles. I checked the parts interchange and it mentioned an GM HEI ignition module - no part number plus some words that it may not work very well. The Chevy parts man thinks it is part number 10482820 ($40.76) for 1973 to 1980 GM models (not all). Does anyone know if the GM HEI ignition module will work and will it last much longer than the Beck Arnley version?
Distributor Cap and Rotor	SIII		SIII Distributor Cap: Beck/Arnley 174-6878 (screw type) SIII Distributor Rotor: Beck/Arnley 173-3880 (push-on type)	B.J. Kroppe
	Commentary: These are direct replacements and work perfectly. Footnote: my car is VIN 344172, 4.2L fuel injected USA spec. without smog pump and without EGR, just in case there are any differences. I think there are none (for SIII that is). B.J. Kroppe - '82 XJ6
Ignition Coil	'79-'87 (F.I. cars)	LU-DLB198	Almost any no-name coil for electronic ignition	Shield, others
	Commentary: Shield: "The Ducellier coil (black plastic and says Ducellier right on it) has an attached ballast coil. The Lucas (silver metal) coil has the ballast mounted remotely. Just be sure that if you replace the Ducellier unit with another coil, you attach the old ballast to the new coil. In place of either the Lucas or Ducellier, you can use a 'universal' type coil as long as the primary resistance is within the range stamped on the original coil (~1.2 ohms or so). I just replaced my Lucas coil with a no-name coil from the parts store - they looked it up in the cross-reference and sold me a 'UF-2' coil. I didn't want to drive around that night so I bought it instead of getting a name brand coil. Works great. Again, be sure there is a ballast resistor in the circuit."
Ignition Coil	SI V12	?	Beck/Arnley part # 178-8025	Dave Morgan
	Commentary: Dave Morgan: "I did find the correct replacement coil. It is listed as Beck/Arnley part # 178-8025 and will work with early V12s in XJ(S1) and XKE(S3) models. This coil is the same as the Lucas "silver" coil except one electrical spade has to be changed to a female to accept the loom spade. Resistance is about 1.3, which is just a hair above the original specification. The cost was $32.31. The car does seem to idle better now. Regards, Dave 73 XJ 12 76 XJ-S P.S. Most of these older cars will have had amplifier changes by now. Mine was manufactured in 08/78 but evidently it is okay to run an old style coil with a newer amplifier. I'm not too sure about the other way around. "
Ignition Wires	SI/II/III	?	Magnecor part # 6000	Richard Werner
	Commentary: Richard Werner: "[I] installed the Magnecor 8mm spark plug wire set that was mentioned by someone on the list. Seem to be very well made and substantial. P/N 6000, cost $33.07 USD" Rich

Part

Series or Year

Jaguar #

Cross-reference

Data Source

Amplifier

SI/II/III

'75-on Constant Energy Ignition (earlier were not always converted to CEI)

LU-DAB102

GMHEI

Gregory Price, David Shield, Stefan Knappe

Commentary:Gregory Price: "The GM HEI electronic ignition module DOES work on my '85 SIII XJ6. I've done no formal testing to make sure it reacts properly in every possible performance scenario, but it runs. I don't present this as an ultimate replacement, but if your Lucas amplifier dies, then you can use a GM unit as a short term (and low cost, US $13.99) solution to hold you over until your (US $240.00) Lucas unit arrives. Note that the GM amp by itself does not function flawlessly. The other two electrical components in the OEM amp assembly serve to smooth the idle and low-RPM operation. Using the GM module by itself will result in stumbling, erratic idle and poor off-the-line performance."

Shield: " Open the Lucas ignition amplifier box and you'll find an honest-to-gosh GM ignition module. Take it to the parts store and ask for one like it. You'll get a choice between a no-name one for cheap, or a better name for a little more. Pay a little more - you don't want this failing on you."

Stefan Knappe: "The ignition amplifier is also identical to the Rover >3500 SD1 unit / MY '83 onwards. I have used a Rover unit successfully on a former XJ6 SIII of mine.

Amplifier

SI/II/III '75-on Constant Energy Ignition (earlier were not always converted to CEI)

LU-DAB102

GMHEI 10482820

AJ Elliot, Stefan Knappe

Commentary:AJ Elliot: I have been using the Beck Arnley version and it lasts about 12000 miles. I checked the parts interchange and it mentioned an GM HEI ignition module - no part number plus some words that it may not work very well. The Chevy parts man thinks it is part number 10482820 ($40.76) for 1973 to 1980 GM models (not all). Does anyone know if the GM HEI ignition module will work and will it last much longer than the Beck Arnley version?

Distributor Cap and Rotor

SIII

SIII Distributor Cap: Beck/Arnley 174-6878 (screw type)
SIII Distributor Rotor: Beck/Arnley 173-3880 (push-on type)

B.J. Kroppe

Commentary: These are direct replacements and work perfectly. Footnote: my car is VIN 344172, 4.2L fuel injected USA spec. without smog pump and without EGR, just in case there are any differences. I think there are none (for SIII that is). B.J. Kroppe - '82 XJ6

Ignition Coil

'79-'87 (F.I. cars)

LU-DLB198

Almost any no-name coil for electronic ignition

Shield, others

Commentary: Shield: "The Ducellier coil (black plastic and says Ducellier right on it) has an attached ballast coil. The Lucas (silver metal) coil has the ballast mounted remotely. Just be sure that if you replace the Ducellier unit with another coil, you attach the old ballast to the new coil. In place of either the Lucas or Ducellier, you can use a 'universal' type coil as long as the primary resistance is within the range stamped on the original coil (~1.2 ohms or so). I just replaced my Lucas coil with a no-name coil from the parts store - they looked it up in the cross-reference and sold me a 'UF-2' coil. I didn't want to drive around that night so I bought it instead of getting a name brand coil. Works great. Again, be sure there is a ballast resistor in the circuit."

Ignition Coil

SI V12

Beck/Arnley part # 178-8025

Dave Morgan

Commentary: Dave Morgan: "I did find the correct replacement coil. It is listed as Beck/Arnley part # 178-8025 and will work with early V12s in XJ(S1) and XKE(S3) models. This coil is the same as the Lucas "silver" coil except one electrical spade has to be changed to a female to accept the loom spade. Resistance is about 1.3, which is just a hair above the original specification. The cost was $32.31. The car does seem to idle better now. Regards, Dave
73 XJ 12
76 XJ-S

P.S. Most of these older cars will have had amplifier changes by now. Mine was manufactured in 08/78 but evidently it is okay to run an old style coil with a newer amplifier. I'm not too sure about the other way around. "

Ignition Wires

SI/II/III

Magnecor part # 6000

Richard Werner

Commentary: Richard Werner: "[I] installed the Magnecor 8mm spark plug wire set that was mentioned by someone on the list. Seem to be very well made and substantial. P/N 6000, cost $33.07 USD" Rich

Part	Series or Year	Cross-reference	Data Source
Interior side courtesy lights	All	GE211-2	John Albrecht
	Commentary:Albrecht: "$2 US courtesy lights (MUCH brighter and they DON'T melt the lenses) "
Interior lights (various)	All	Various light bulbs	Profili
	Commentary:Profili: " I knew that the bulb was out on the two interior light switches, so I removed the panel to get at the bulb. The closest that the guy at NAPA could find was a #11009 which is 2 watt as opposed to the 1.2w that was in there. It makes a big difference! I can now see the little green and red bars (green when off and red when on) that I didn't even know were there. I also replaced the bulb on the other switch pair, and I can see the green and red arrows clearly too. I also jumped together the two leads from the dash lighting pot - I had it on full bright all the time anyway - and connecting these leads directly together gives a noticeable increase in dash lighting over the 'full on' position. I replaced the opticell bulb too - with a #1893. It's 4.62 watts (as opposed to the bulb that was in there - marked 6W) but it's now brighter (may be more to do with bypassing the pot - I didn't get a chance to compare as I messed about with the existing bulb while it was on and broke the filament). I could see the dash clearly on my drive into work this morning. "
Leather Dye		Genuine Connolly dye	Rob Weiss-Malik
	Commentary: Rob Weiss-Malik: "Bill Hirsch Automotive in New Jersey (1-800-828-2061) They distribute genuine Connolly dye (mine came in cans that were labeled Connolly)."
Leather Dye		Color-Plus Surflex dye	Gregory Andrachuk
	Commentary: Gregory Andrachuk: "Company name is Color-Plus, their US phone number is 717-686-3158 I sent in a one inch square sample taken from the back of the rear seat. In two weeks, the company had colour matched the sample. PERFECTLY. Preparation is crucial since you must remove all dirt, previous conditioners, oils, etc. No short cuts here. ... Although the company says that the colorant (a water based polymer) should be sprayed on (as Connolly does with its coatings), or applied with a bristle brush, I used an artist foam brush, as I have in the past. It is easy to do, and the results are perfect. The Secret is to use HARDLY ANY COLORANT. The company says that to do an interior of a Jaguar, you need one quart. I used less than ONE TENTH of a quart to do 2 thin coats on all the seats, and 3 on the front seat bottoms which were the most worn! You do NOT want to fill any of the leather creases or natural markings . You do NOT want to have any colorant build-up in the seams or at the piping. So in addition to the foam brush, you need a soft toothbrush to clear those areas of any excess pigment. The stuff dries to the touch in 20 minutes or so, nd then it is ready for recoating, and two or three THIN coats is sufficient. In fact, the rear seat looked excellent with one coat, because the colour match was EXACT, in DOESKIN. At the end of the day, I reinstalled the headrests, and put the seats back in the car. The interior literally looks NEW. Not like new, but like a car that has been used for 6 months or so, because the front seats still have the character creases. The seats are still soft and pliable, and all that is necessary is a little natural soiling that will come with use. You can, of course, use this product on vinyl as well. ... The cost of a quart of colorant, specifically matched to MY car (after all, Jaguar matched the tones of the hides that went into your car: if you have a doeskin interior, it may well be a halftone different than mine) was less than $100 US. The cost of new leather, which would essentially give the same appearance,is $2500. "
Leather Dye		Gliptone Leathercare	Tom Moore, Andreas Tschanz
	Commentary: Tom Moore: "Original price for 250 ml bottles is UK# 5.05 for the cleaner and UK# 6.10 for the conditioner. Haven't tried it yet because the Jag is still in the shop awaiting the third fitting of a new head (long and sad story). Tom Gliptone Leathercare 5 Bridgewater Street Manchester M3 4NN England Phone +44 161 834 4153 Fax +44 161 839 2941 They also state some order phone numbers in other countries: US 603 622 1050 France 1/348 61 61 Germany 076 35 822 041"
Mud flaps	SIII	Toyota Camry	Wellington Allen
	Commentary: At a concours, I saw an xj6 fitted with non Jaguar mudflaps, which I thought looked just great. My response to them surprised me. I'm not a big fan of mudflaps; personally don't like the way they look on the xj6. These, however, were fitted beautifully to the sills and rear underpans, cupping these parts, and integrating themselves nicely into the lines of the car, instead of hanging there looking like, to me, an add on. I believe the owner said they came from a Camray. Not sure what year but I think it was 96 or 97.
Seats	SIII		Alan Khaw
	Commentary:Alan Khaw: Seats. Tried to put in S2 (XJ12) seats in S3 and found that the seats are comptible with slight diff...the S3 uses the star bolt, which on hindsight is a great way to use bolts while allowing it to be screwed onto the nut. No way the rachet or spanner can be used...S2 is a fixed bolt...very troublesome to put on since the nut has to be tightened and there's not much space to use the spanner. Patience required. Nut/Bolt size is 5/16" x 20-25mm UNF 15. (FYI - Was using the S2 seats as a temp measure while the leather seats are being repaired...) Tomorrow the S2 seats will be completely installed. Very easy to remove, hell of a hard to put them back. Just be careful and plan. I found I needed either lots of extra nuts or a strong agnet to ensure that the nut don't fall inside the seat bracket, which will become a hassle. (Don't forget to store the bolts in a safe place so that when the leather seats have been cleaned up it can be put back in...)
Speakers	SIII - others?	Polk MM4500; Polk MM5520
	Commentary: Shield: "Sounds great with stock radio. Easy fit, connectors need replaced. Well-suited for low-power stock radio. For high-power installations, there are speakers better suited than these." Polk MM5520Shield: "Sounds better than above. Non-trivial installation - the mounting hole needs to be enlarged, then the leather needs to be glued back again."

Part

Series or Year

Jaguar #

Cross-reference

Data Source

Interior side courtesy lights

All

GE211-2

John Albrecht

Commentary:Albrecht: "$2 US courtesy lights (MUCH brighter and they DON'T melt the lenses) "

Interior lights (various)

All

Various light bulbs

Profili

Commentary:Profili: " I knew that the bulb was out on the two interior light switches, so I removed the panel to get at the bulb. The closest that the guy at NAPA could find was a #11009 which is 2 watt as opposed to the 1.2w that was in there. It makes a big difference! I can now see the little green and red bars (green when off and red when on) that I didn't even know were there. I also replaced the bulb on the other switch pair, and I can see the green and red arrows clearly too. I also jumped together the two leads from the dash lighting pot - I had it on full bright all the time anyway - and connecting these leads directly together gives a noticeable increase in dash lighting over the 'full on' position. I replaced the opticell bulb too - with a #1893. It's 4.62 watts (as opposed to the bulb that was in there - marked 6W) but it's now brighter (may be more to do with bypassing the pot - I didn't get a chance to compare as I messed about with the existing bulb while it was on and broke the filament). I could see the dash clearly on my drive into work this morning. "

Leather Dye

Genuine Connolly dye

Rob Weiss-Malik

Commentary: Rob Weiss-Malik: "Bill Hirsch Automotive in New Jersey (1-800-828-2061) They distribute genuine Connolly dye (mine came in cans that were labeled Connolly)."

Leather Dye

Color-Plus Surflex dye

Gregory Andrachuk

Commentary: Gregory Andrachuk: "Company name is Color-Plus, their US phone number is 717-686-3158 I sent in a one inch square sample taken from the back of the rear seat. In two weeks, the company had colour matched the sample. PERFECTLY. Preparation is crucial since you must remove all dirt, previous conditioners, oils, etc. No short cuts here. ... Although the company says that the colorant (a water based polymer) should be sprayed on (as Connolly does with its coatings), or applied with a bristle brush, I used an artist foam brush, as I have in the past. It is easy to do, and the results are perfect. The Secret is to use HARDLY ANY COLORANT. The company says that to do an interior of a Jaguar, you need one quart. I used less than ONE TENTH of a quart to do 2 thin coats on all the seats, and 3 on the front seat bottoms which were the most worn! You do NOT want to fill any of the leather creases or natural markings . You do NOT want to have any colorant build-up in the seams or at the piping. So in addition to the foam brush, you need a soft toothbrush to clear those areas of any excess pigment. The stuff dries to the touch in 20 minutes or so, nd then it is ready for recoating, and two or three THIN coats is sufficient. In fact, the rear seat looked excellent with one coat, because the colour match was EXACT, in DOESKIN. At the end of the day, I reinstalled the headrests, and put the seats back in the car. The interior literally looks NEW. Not like new, but like a car that has been used for 6 months or so, because the front seats still have the character creases. The seats are still soft and pliable, and all that is necessary is a little natural soiling that will come with use. You can, of course, use this product on vinyl as well. ... The cost of a quart of colorant, specifically matched to MY car (after all, Jaguar matched the tones of the hides that went into your car: if you have a doeskin interior, it may well be a halftone different than mine) was less than $100 US. The cost of new leather, which would essentially give the same appearance,is $2500. "

Leather Dye

Gliptone Leathercare

Tom Moore, Andreas Tschanz

Commentary: Tom Moore: "Original price for 250 ml bottles is UK# 5.05 for the cleaner and UK# 6.10 for the conditioner. Haven't tried it yet because the Jag is still in the shop awaiting the third fitting of a new head (long and sad story).
Tom Gliptone Leathercare
5 Bridgewater Street
Manchester M3 4NN
England
Phone +44 161 834 4153 Fax +44 161 839 2941
They also state some order phone numbers in other countries:
US 603 622 1050
France 1/348 61 61
Germany 076 35 822 041"

Mud flaps

SIII

Toyota Camry

Wellington Allen

Commentary: At a concours, I saw an xj6 fitted with non Jaguar mudflaps, which I thought looked just great. My response to them surprised me. I'm not a big fan of mudflaps; personally don't like the way they look on the xj6. These, however, were fitted beautifully to the sills and rear underpans, cupping these parts, and integrating themselves nicely into the lines of the car, instead of hanging there looking like, to me, an add on. I believe the owner said they came from a Camray. Not sure what year but I think it was 96 or 97.

Seats

SIII

Alan Khaw

Commentary:Alan Khaw: Seats. Tried to put in S2 (XJ12) seats in S3 and found that the seats are comptible with slight diff...the S3 uses the star bolt, which on hindsight is a great way to use bolts while allowing it to be screwed onto the nut. No way the rachet or spanner can be used...S2 is a fixed bolt...very troublesome to put on since the nut has to be tightened and there's not much space to use the spanner. Patience required. Nut/Bolt size is 5/16" x 20-25mm UNF 15. (FYI - Was using the S2 seats as a temp measure while the leather seats are being repaired...) Tomorrow the S2 seats will be completely installed. Very easy to remove, hell of a hard to put them back. Just be careful and plan. I found I needed either lots of extra nuts or a strong agnet to ensure that the nut don't fall inside the seat bracket, which will become a hassle. (Don't forget to store the bolts in a safe place so that when the leather seats have been cleaned up it can be put back in...)

Speakers

SIII - others?

Polk MM4500; Polk MM5520

Commentary: Shield: "Sounds great with stock radio. Easy fit, connectors need replaced. Well-suited for low-power stock radio. For high-power installations, there are speakers better suited than these."

Polk MM5520Shield: "Sounds better than above. Non-trivial installation - the mounting hole needs to be enlarged, then the leather needs to be glued back again."

Part	Series or Year	Jaguar #	Cross-reference	Data Source
Ball Joints	SIII (all?)	CAC9937 ( front lower ball joint) >CAC9938 (front upper ball joint)	Lemfoerder Metallwaren (out of Dielingen, Germany) Lemfoerder Part No: 030 260 004 834 (lower) Lemfoerder Part No: 027 260 005 834 (upper)	B.J. Kroppe
	Commentary: B.J. Kroppe:I acquired some front upper and lower ball joints from a contact I work with. The ball joints are for the front suspension of SIII XJ6, but maybe applicable to other XJs as well as other Jaguar models. Manufacturer: Lemfoerder Metallwaren (out of Dielingen, Germany) Jaguar Part No: CAC9937 (I think this is the front lower ball joint) Lemfoerder Part No: 030 260 004 834 Jaguar Part No: CAC9938 (I think this is the front upper ball joint) Lemfoerder Part No: 027 260 005 834 The lower ball joint is the cartridge style, sealed for life type. It bolts right in, but the upper race from the factory joint must first be pounded out, as has been described in previous posts. No shims are required for the lower ball joint. The upper joint is an identical piece - straight bolt in. You must re-use your original caster shims with the replacement ball joint. I suspect the Lemfoerder parts are only available in Europe (maybe only the Continent). I got them as a favor so can't say for sure. I know that TRW and Moog (brand of TRW??) offer these joints in the U.S., at a ridiculous price (US$80 each).
Bearings Front Wheel inner	SI (to '75)	C15351	Timken (brand)Cone: LM67048 ; Cup: LM67010	Ned Blagojevic
>Rear Wheel Inner	SI (to '75)	C15230	Timken: Cone:18590?; Cup:18520 Bower/BCA part number 18590-18520 for the inner	Ned Blagojevic, Chad Bolles
Rear Wheel Outer	SI (to '75)	c19066	Timken: Cone:18690; Cup:18620 Bower/BCA part number 18690-18620 for the outer	Ned Blagojevic, Chad Bolles
Diff RH and LH	SI (to '75)	3845?	Timken: Cone:25577; Cup:25523>	Ned Blagojevic<
Pinion Head	SI (to '75)	4HA-02341	Timken: Cone:HM89446;Cup:HM89410	Ned Blagojevic
Pinion Tail	SI (to '75)	4HA-022-4?	Timken: Cone:M88043; Cup:M88010	Ned Blagojevic
Rear Wishbone Pivot	SI (to '75)	C16029	Timken: Cone:03062; Cup:03162	Ned Blagojevic
	Commentary: Ned: That is all I have. Anyone that can shed some light on other parts which are interchangeable please post your list. Shield: there are a few question marks - anyone have any additional details? Chad Bolles: " the bearings in the rear wheel carriers are a Bower/BCA part number 18590-18520 for the inner, and 18690-18620 for the outer; available in any auto parts store."
Bearings Front Wheel inner	'75-'76	C15351	Timken: Cone:LM67048; Cup:LM67010	Ned Blagojevic
Rear Wheel Inner	'75-'76	C15230	Timken: Cone:18590?; Cup:18520 Bower/BCA part number 18590-18520 for the inner	Ned Blagojevic, Chad Bolles
Rear Wheel Outer	'75-'76	c19066	Timken: Cone:18690; Cup:18620 Bower/BCA part number 18690-18620 for the outer	Ned Blagojevic, Chad Bolles
Diff RH and LH	'75-'76	3845?	Timken: Cone:25577; Cup:25523	Ned Blagojevic
Pinion Head	'75-'76	4HA-02341	Timken: Cone:HM89446; Cup:HM89410	Ned Blagojevic
Pinion Tail	'75-'76	4HA-022-4?	Timken: Cone:M88043; Cup:M88010	Ned Blagojevic
Rear Wishbone Pivot	'75-'76	C16029	Timken: Cone:03062; Cup:03162	Ned Blagojevic
	Commentary: Ned: That is all I have. Anyone that can shed some light on other parts which are interchangeable please post your list. Chad Bolles: " the bearings in the rear wheel carriers are a Bower/BCA part number 18590-18520 for the inner, and 18690-18620 for the outer; available in any auto parts store."
Grease caps (front)	SIII, others?		Napa 730-2410	Michael T.
	Commentary: Micahel T.: I know it's picky, but I lost the grease cap to one of my front wheel bearings. The Jag part is very heavy duty and will not be found locally unless you order it by mail or get it from a dealer. Napa has one that fits if you get in a bind. It's Napa part # 730 - 2410 and it cost $2.64.
Grease seals (front)	SII		Victor 66723 or Federal Mogul 224663	Paul Hibbs
	Commentary: no further details
Power Steering Pump			GM Saginaw unit	William "Chip" Lamb, Kirby Palm;
	Commentary: William "Chip" Lamb: As many of you know, Jag lumped the straight six with lots of the General's parts, among which is a GM Power Steering pump. I was reading through the interchange guide this morning, and read that Kirby wasn't sure if the pressure on the Jag system and the pressure on the GM system were the same. Now I just put a new PS pump on my car (replacing the original!) and must say that without swapping the pressure valve that all is as good as new (after the normal break-in/bleed down time).... Kirby Palm: "The XJS power steering pump is a standard GM Saginaw unit. However, it is uncertain whether the Jaguar system operates at the same pressure as a GM; so, if you replace the original unit, it is suggested that you remove the pressure control valve from the Jaguar unit and install it in the new one. The pressure control valve is easily removed by removing the outlet fitting and shaking the unit until it falls out."
Power Steering Rack Pinion Seals	SIII		SI XJ	Alan Howard
	Commentary: Alan Howard " The best seal to use is the lower pinion seal as fitted to S1 XJ,this is definitely a very closed trade secret, it is bigger both inside & outside diameter and what @! I hear you cry it will not fit, but the cross section is the same and by using this seal you are compressing more material into the same area and putting more crush onto the shaft, some steering reconditioners know this trick and use this seal in preference to the correct one as they stop the XJ racks from leaking from the pinion which is the weak point with these racks, I have these seals and the price is $12.00 Australian dollars each plus ii is best to replace the outer dust seal $4.50 each"
Shocks	All		KYB KG4540	Shield
	Commentary: Shield: "Handles as original."
			Monroe Gas Gas-Matic Front: 43027; Rear: 43013	Gunnar Helliesen
	Commentary: Gunnar Helliesen: "They give the car a whole new feel, much firmer. They also lifted the car just that little bit that was needed. Perfect!"
			Boge	Greg Price, Paul Gover
	Commentary: Nothing compares favorably with the OEM Boge shocks, including Woodhead and Monroe. The Boges last longer and provide a superior the Jaguar handling and ride, stick with the OEM shocks. Take care, Greg Price All XJshttp://www.jagbits.com/ New & "Owner-tested" Jaguar Parts Commentary:Paul Gover: For info, I changed my shock absorbers last year. The front ones were genuine Jaguar parts. Inside the box were Boge units. The back ones I bought from the local motor factor, who is a Boge agent. About half the Jaguar price (and there are 4 of them, of course). The ride is much better than before.
	All		Gabriel G53161 (rear)	Joe Campa
	Commentary: Found and installed Gabriel Pro Ryder #G53161 rear shocks for $39.99 at Pep Boys. Joe Campa
Shock Bushings	SI/II/III, also XJS		HELP brand shock bushings	Chad Bolles, SteveChatman
	Commentary: Chad Bolles: "Go to Autozone, Pep Boys, Advance, and just about any good parts store look for their parts section marked HELP, in red packages look for shock bushings with part no. ending in 18,(cannot remember the first two no's) these will work great and only cost around $3.00 a pair. Then the hard part is installing them, cause you have a gas shock and it is a job to pull it down and remove the old parts and install the new. So if you have a helper great. " Commentary: Steve Chatman: "Long story short, buy a pair of the rubber bushings available in the Help brand package or NAPA brand and you get exactly the same thing. Both from India and stamped with an M I think. Or was that a W? Cost is cheaper at NAPA but is less than $3USD in any event. The Help part number might be 31018, that's what is on my ticket. In any event it is very common and, at about 1/2 inch, it is the thinnest type they have. You might need to modify the part that fits where the metal of your bottom washer is shaped to go through the wing. The packaged piece is too wide at this point. I trimmed mine but am not certain that it is required. I removed the air filter canister on one side and the cruise control bellows on the other to improve access. Just put a small wrench on the rod to keep it from rotating, remove the top nut with a closed-end wrench, then the second nut. Take off the old washer and bushing. Your bushing may be stuck to the washers but will come apart easily enough. Trim the bushing to fit if you like then put it all back together. It isn't quite that easy but almost. You might have to wedge the small wrench against a block of wood to keep it from turning both on disassembly and assembly. What a difference! Why did I wait so long to do this repair? "
Springs, front and rear			.	Paul Gover
	Commentary: Paul Gover: This year I replaced the springs; the front ride height was about 2" low! Front springs are Jaguar - not too expensive considering. Rear springs aren't; David Manners ltd quoted something like ś90 a pair (2 pairs needed), and offers an alternative at about ś15 each. (Prices in pounds sterling.) Ride is better still!
Sway bar (front)	SI/II/III		XJS Sway Bar	Shield
	Commentary: Shield: "Improves handling, not easy to install, must partly remove front subframe. Harder than replacing the alternator (which is what I was doing when I decided to go ahead and do this, too)."
Front sway bar bushings			Addco	Kirby
	Commentary: Kirby: Addco has provided me with a set of aftermarket brackets and urethane bushings that fit the front anti-sway bar mount on the XJ-S PERFECTLY! I kid you not, it'd almost be worthwhile to order a set just to be able to fully appreciate just how beautifully these parts fit the car. They are far and away more satisfactory in fit, function and appearance than the original Jaguar parts were! Anybody interested in a set of these front anti-sway bar mount brackets and bushings should contact: Addco 715 13th Street Lake Park, Florida 33403 800-505-0147 or 561-844-7881 and ask for a set of "S" style brackets and bushings. Note that you will need to specify the diameter bar they are for; for the typical stock XJ-S, the front bar is 7/8". If you have any questions, I suggest you talk with John Carlson at extension 16. For those with an XJ6, it is my understanding that the same bracket and bushing kit will work for you too -- except that the stock bar is 3/4". Price? This set of two brackets, two bushings, and a small packet of special grease lists for less than $15.
			HELP! (brand name)	Dan Fitch
	Commentary: Dan Fitch: BTW, while I was in the parts store, I checked out the HELP! prepackaged item rack. I had read an earlier post that stated the part number ended in an "18", for the shock absorber bushings that are supposed to fit the XJ sway bar ends. The actual part number is #31018. They do look like they will fit. I picked up two pair and plan to give them a try this afternoon, since mine are almost worn out.
	SII, others?		Parts-Master #2-K5252	Paul Hibbs
	Commentary: Paul Hibbs: "..(complete with the vertical spacer links) Parts-Master #2-K5252 (made for a chevy truck but works fine, and it's cheap)."
U-Joints	SIII		See commentary, below	Chad Bolles, John Baldini
	Commentary: Chad Bolles: Just remember that all the U Joints in your Jag will also fit a Chev. The joint for the prop shaft is a Spicer no 5-153X and can be bought at any parts house,Pep Boys, Autozone, Advance Auto, etc,etc.. If memory serves me the 1/2 shaft joint is a 160, also can be bought at Autozone, you just have to get a person to help you who has the brains to look it up. To change them is no different than changing a Chevy, now getting the shafts out is another story. John Baldini: From Chad Bolles the part is a Spicer 160, I crossed it to a Napa 330. The only problem is the thickness of the cross doesn't let you push the caps all the way out (about 7/8 and then you have to pull with pliers) not a problem until I break these too!
Upper wishbone bushes	SII/SIII		Local machinist	Lennart Hellberg
	Commentary: Lennart Hellberg: "I changed my upper wish bone bushes in 1991 (ref.: CAC.9295 /C.33745/1), The rubber had deteriorated due to friction against the washer (C.29975) and due to the fact that this washer had become rusty after being attacked by water, salt and grit for some 13 years. Then water and grit washed the grease away and the plastic (Teflon?) sleeves in those bushes were destroyed, the sleeves started to wear heavily and then tires were eaten up on the inside. It is a common problem on those cars. I did not find an aftermarket slipflex bush and had to turn to Jaguar. They were not cheap stuff, and I really felt that something had to be done to prevent such quick deterioration. Instead of buying new thrustwashers (C.29975), or cleaning and plating the old ones, I had new washers made in stainless steel, then I mounted them and greased all those parts with extra water-resistant grease (I think it was some silicone based stuff from Molykote, maybe ref. 111, but I_m not sure). Quite recently I was there again to realign the wheels, and I took the upper wishbone assembly apart to see if it was starting to deteriorate or not. I was glad to discover that the slipflex bushes were as new, and the rubber maintained a watertight seal, protecting the innards of this assembly. I suggest therefore that a change of those bushes be accompanied by a replacement of the thrust-washers to home made washers in stainless steel. Stainless steel do not become rough and therefore the rubber will stay in god shape for a longer time period. I had my washers done by a local workshop that since then has closed down, so here is a business idea for an entrepreneur with a lathe. A decent price would be around a buck each, there_s eight on one car. If anyone starts to manufacture those washers, please let me know." Lennart

Part

Series or Year

Jaguar #

Cross-reference

Data Source

Ball Joints

SIII (all?)

CAC9937 ( front lower ball joint)
>CAC9938 (front upper ball joint)

Lemfoerder Metallwaren (out of Dielingen, Germany)
Lemfoerder Part No: 030 260 004 834 (lower)
Lemfoerder Part No: 027 260 005 834 (upper)

B.J. Kroppe

Commentary: B.J. Kroppe:I acquired some front upper and lower ball joints from a contact I work with. The ball joints are for the front suspension of SIII XJ6, but maybe applicable to other XJs as well as other Jaguar models. Manufacturer: Lemfoerder Metallwaren (out of Dielingen, Germany) Jaguar Part No: CAC9937 (I think this is the front lower ball joint) Lemfoerder Part No: 030 260 004 834 Jaguar Part No: CAC9938 (I think this is the front upper ball joint) Lemfoerder Part No: 027 260 005 834 The lower ball joint is the cartridge style, sealed for life type. It bolts right in, but the upper race from the factory joint must first be pounded out, as has been described in previous posts. No shims are required for the lower ball joint. The upper joint is an identical piece - straight bolt in. You must re-use your original caster shims with the replacement ball joint. I suspect the Lemfoerder parts are only available in Europe (maybe only the Continent). I got them as a favor so can't say for sure. I know that TRW and Moog (brand of TRW??) offer these joints in the U.S., at a ridiculous price (US$80 each).

Bearings
Front Wheel inner

SI (to '75)

C15351

Timken (brand)Cone: LM67048 ; Cup: LM67010

Ned Blagojevic

>Rear Wheel Inner

SI (to '75)

C15230

Timken: Cone:18590?; Cup:18520
Bower/BCA part number 18590-18520 for the inner

Ned Blagojevic, Chad Bolles

Rear Wheel Outer

SI (to '75)

c19066

Timken: Cone:18690; Cup:18620
Bower/BCA part number 18690-18620 for the outer

Ned Blagojevic, Chad Bolles

Diff RH and LH

SI (to '75)

3845?

Timken: Cone:25577; Cup:25523>

Ned Blagojevic<

Pinion Head

SI (to '75)

4HA-02341

Timken: Cone:HM89446;Cup:HM89410

Ned Blagojevic

Pinion Tail

SI (to '75)

4HA-022-4?

Timken: Cone:M88043; Cup:M88010

Ned Blagojevic

Rear Wishbone Pivot

SI (to '75)

C16029

Timken: Cone:03062; Cup:03162

Ned Blagojevic

Commentary: Ned: That is all I have. Anyone that can shed some light on other parts which are interchangeable please post your list. Shield: there are a few question marks - anyone have any additional details?

Chad Bolles: " the bearings in the rear wheel carriers are a Bower/BCA part number 18590-18520 for the inner, and 18690-18620 for the outer; available in any auto parts store."

Bearings Front Wheel inner

'75-'76

C15351

Timken: Cone:LM67048; Cup:LM67010

Ned Blagojevic

Rear Wheel Inner

'75-'76

C15230

Timken: Cone:18590?; Cup:18520
Bower/BCA part number 18590-18520 for the inner

Ned Blagojevic, Chad Bolles

Rear Wheel Outer

'75-'76

c19066

Timken: Cone:18690; Cup:18620
Bower/BCA part number 18690-18620 for the outer

Ned Blagojevic, Chad Bolles

Diff RH and LH

'75-'76

3845?

Timken: Cone:25577; Cup:25523

Ned Blagojevic

Pinion Head

'75-'76

4HA-02341

Timken: Cone:HM89446; Cup:HM89410

Ned Blagojevic

Pinion Tail

'75-'76

4HA-022-4?

Timken: Cone:M88043; Cup:M88010

Ned Blagojevic

Rear Wishbone Pivot

'75-'76

C16029

Timken: Cone:03062; Cup:03162

Ned Blagojevic

Commentary: Ned: That is all I have. Anyone that can shed some light on other parts which are interchangeable please post your list.

Chad Bolles: " the bearings in the rear wheel carriers are a Bower/BCA part number 18590-18520 for the inner, and 18690-18620 for the outer; available in any auto parts store."

Grease caps (front)

SIII, others?

Napa 730-2410

Michael T.

Commentary: Micahel T.: I know it's picky, but I lost the grease cap to one of my front wheel bearings. The Jag part is very heavy duty and will not be found locally unless you order it by mail or get it from a dealer. Napa has one that fits if you get in a bind. It's Napa part # 730 - 2410 and it cost $2.64.

Grease seals (front)

SII

Victor 66723 or Federal Mogul 224663

Paul Hibbs

Commentary: no further details

Power Steering Pump

GM Saginaw unit

William "Chip" Lamb, Kirby Palm;

Commentary: William "Chip" Lamb: As many of you know, Jag lumped the straight six with lots of the General's parts, among which is a GM Power Steering pump. I was reading through the interchange guide this morning, and read that Kirby wasn't sure if the pressure on the Jag system and the pressure on the GM system were the same. Now I just put a new PS pump on my car (replacing the original!) and must say that without swapping the pressure valve that all is as good as new (after the normal break-in/bleed down time)....

Kirby Palm: "The XJS power steering pump is a standard GM Saginaw unit. However, it is uncertain whether the Jaguar system operates at the same pressure as a GM; so, if you replace the original unit, it is suggested that you remove the pressure control valve from the Jaguar unit and install it in the new one. The pressure control valve is easily removed by removing the outlet fitting and shaking the unit until it falls out."

Power Steering Rack Pinion Seals

SIII

SI XJ

Alan Howard

Commentary: Alan Howard " The best seal to use is the lower pinion seal as fitted to S1 XJ,this is definitely a very closed trade secret, it is bigger both inside & outside diameter and what @! I hear you cry it will not fit, but the cross section is the same and by using this seal you are compressing more material into the same area and putting more crush onto the shaft, some steering reconditioners know this trick and use this seal in preference to the correct one as they stop the XJ racks from leaking from the pinion which is the weak point with these racks, I have these seals and the price is $12.00 Australian dollars each plus ii is best to replace the outer dust seal $4.50 each"

Shocks

All

KYB KG4540

Shield

Commentary: Shield: "Handles as original."

Monroe Gas Gas-Matic Front: 43027; Rear: 43013

Gunnar Helliesen

Commentary: Gunnar Helliesen: "They give the car a whole new feel, much firmer. They also lifted the car just that little bit that was needed. Perfect!"

Boge

Greg Price, Paul Gover

Commentary: Nothing compares favorably with the OEM Boge shocks, including Woodhead and Monroe. The Boges last longer and provide a superior the Jaguar handling and ride, stick with the OEM shocks. Take care, Greg Price All XJshttp://www.jagbits.com/ New & "Owner-tested" Jaguar Parts
Commentary:Paul Gover: For info, I changed my shock absorbers last year. The front ones were genuine Jaguar parts. Inside the box were Boge units. The back ones I bought from the local motor factor, who is a Boge agent. About half the Jaguar price (and there are 4 of them, of course). The ride is much better than before.

All

Gabriel G53161 (rear)

Joe Campa

Commentary: Found and installed Gabriel Pro Ryder #G53161 rear shocks for $39.99 at Pep Boys. Joe Campa

Shock Bushings

SI/II/III, also XJS

HELP brand shock bushings

Chad Bolles, SteveChatman

Commentary: Chad Bolles: "Go to Autozone, Pep Boys, Advance, and just about any good parts store look for their parts section marked HELP, in red packages look for shock bushings with part no. ending in 18,(cannot remember the first two no's) these will work great and only cost around $3.00 a pair. Then the hard part is installing them, cause you have a gas shock and it is a job to pull it down and remove the old parts and install the new. So if you have a helper great. "
Commentary: Steve Chatman: "Long story short, buy a pair of the rubber bushings available in the Help brand package or NAPA brand and you get exactly the same thing. Both from India and stamped with an M I think. Or was that a W? Cost is cheaper at NAPA but is less than $3USD in any event. The Help part number might be 31018, that's what is on my ticket. In any event it is very common and, at about 1/2 inch, it is the thinnest type they have. You might need to modify the part that fits where the metal of your bottom washer is shaped to go through the wing. The packaged piece is too wide at this point. I trimmed mine but am not certain that it is required. I removed the air filter canister on one side and the cruise control bellows on the other to improve access. Just put a small wrench on the rod to keep it from rotating, remove the top nut with a closed-end wrench, then the second nut. Take off the old washer and bushing. Your bushing may be stuck to the washers but will come apart easily enough. Trim the bushing to fit if you like then put it all back together. It isn't quite that easy but almost. You might have to wedge the small wrench against a block of wood to keep it from turning both on disassembly and assembly. What a difference! Why did I wait so long to do this repair? "

Springs, front and rear

Paul Gover

Commentary: Paul Gover: This year I replaced the springs; the front ride height was about 2" low! Front springs are Jaguar - not too expensive considering. Rear springs aren't; David Manners ltd quoted something like ś90 a pair (2 pairs needed), and offers an alternative at about ś15 each. (Prices in pounds sterling.) Ride is better still!

Sway bar (front)

SI/II/III

XJS Sway Bar

Shield

Commentary: Shield: "Improves handling, not easy to install, must partly remove front subframe. Harder than replacing the alternator (which is what I was doing when I decided to go ahead and do this, too)."

Front sway bar bushings

Addco

Kirby

Commentary: Kirby: Addco has provided me with a set of aftermarket brackets and urethane bushings that fit the front anti-sway bar mount on the XJ-S **PERFECTLY**! I kid you not, it'd almost be worthwhile to order a set just to be able to fully appreciate just how beautifully these parts fit the car. They are far and away more satisfactory in fit, function and appearance than the original Jaguar parts were! Anybody interested in a set of these front anti-sway bar mount brackets and bushings should contact: Addco
715 13th Street
Lake Park, Florida 33403
800-505-0147 or 561-844-7881
and ask for a set of "S" style brackets and bushings. Note that you will need to specify the diameter bar they are for; for the typical stock XJ-S, the front bar is 7/8". If you have any questions, I suggest you talk with John Carlson at extension 16. For those with an XJ6, it is my understanding that the same bracket and bushing kit will work for you too -- except that the stock bar is 3/4". Price? This set of two brackets, two bushings, and a small packet of special grease lists for less than $15.

HELP! (brand name)

Dan Fitch

Commentary: Dan Fitch: BTW, while I was in the parts store, I checked out the HELP! prepackaged item rack. I had read an earlier post that stated the part number ended in an "18", for the shock absorber bushings that are supposed to fit the XJ sway bar ends. The actual part number is #31018. They do look like they will fit. I picked up two pair and plan to give them a try this afternoon, since mine are almost worn out.

SII, others?

Parts-Master #2-K5252

Paul Hibbs

Commentary: Paul Hibbs: "..(complete with the vertical spacer links) Parts-Master #2-K5252 (made for a chevy truck but works fine, and it's cheap)."

U-Joints

SIII

See commentary, below

Chad Bolles, John Baldini

Commentary: Chad Bolles: Just remember that all the U Joints in your Jag will also fit a Chev. The joint for the prop shaft is a Spicer no 5-153X and can be bought at any parts house,Pep Boys, Autozone, Advance Auto, etc,etc.. If memory serves me the 1/2 shaft joint is a 160, also can be bought at Autozone, you just have to get a person to help you who has the brains to look it up. To change them is no different than changing a Chevy, now getting the shafts out is another story.

John Baldini: From Chad Bolles the part is a Spicer 160, I crossed it to a Napa 330. The only problem is the thickness of the cross doesn't let you push the caps all the way out (about 7/8 and then you have to pull with pliers) not a problem until I break these too!

Upper wishbone bushes

SII/SIII

Local machinist

Lennart Hellberg

Commentary: Lennart Hellberg: "I changed my upper wish bone bushes in 1991 (ref.: CAC.9295 /C.33745/1), The rubber had deteriorated due to friction against the washer (C.29975) and due to the fact that this washer had become rusty after being attacked by water, salt and grit for some 13 years. Then water and grit washed the grease away and the plastic (Teflon?) sleeves in those bushes were destroyed, the sleeves started to wear heavily and then tires were eaten up on the inside. It is a common problem on those cars. I did not find an aftermarket slipflex bush and had to turn to Jaguar. They were not cheap stuff, and I really felt that something had to be done to prevent such quick deterioration. Instead of buying new thrustwashers (C.29975), or cleaning and plating the old ones, I had new washers made in stainless steel, then I mounted them and greased all those parts with extra water-resistant grease (I think it was some silicone based stuff from Molykote, maybe ref. 111, but I_m not sure). Quite recently I was there again to realign the wheels, and I took the upper wishbone assembly apart to see if it was starting to deteriorate or not. I was glad to discover that the slipflex bushes were as new, and the rubber maintained a watertight seal, protecting the innards of this assembly. I suggest therefore that a change of those bushes be accompanied by a replacement of the thrust-washers to home made washers in stainless steel.

Stainless steel do not become rough and therefore the rubber will stay in god shape for a longer time period. I had my washers done by a local workshop that since then has closed down, so here is a business idea for an entrepreneur with a lathe. A decent price would be around a buck each, there_s eight on one car. If anyone starts to manufacture those washers, please let me know." Lennart

Part	Series or Year	Jaguar #	Cross-reference	Data Source
Transducer	SIII	JA-DAC2874	Rover 3500 transducer	Stefan Knappe
	Commentary: Stefan Knappe: I had some Rover cars years ago and kept a lot of spare parts. The 1983 onwards models of the Rover 3500 with automatic transmission have a BW unit in conjunction with an electronic speedo also. The transmitter on these cars is identical to the ones fitted to the XJ6's of the period. I have used a Rover transmitter successfully on a jag.

Part

Series or Year

Jaguar #

Cross-reference

Data Source

Transducer

SIII

JA-DAC2874

Rover 3500 transducer

Stefan Knappe

Commentary: Stefan Knappe: I had some Rover cars years ago and kept a lot of spare parts. The 1983 onwards models of the Rover 3500 with automatic transmission have a BW unit in conjunction with an electronic speedo also. The transmitter on these cars is identical to the ones fitted to the XJ6's of the period. I have used a Rover transmitter successfully on a jag.

Jon Heber (All Jaguar Clubs Of The World web)	XJ-lovers members	Jim's XJ6 Bumper To Bumper Book	Kirby's XJS Help Book
XK's Unlimited catalog	Jag-Lovers Members	A Bosch/Lucas dealer inSacramento

Part	Series or Year	Jaguar #	Cross-reference	Data Source
Fuel Filter	SIII	LU73201	Autozone FF761	John Albrecht
	Commentary:As of 11/96, for 1984 XJ6. $10USD
	SIII	LU73201	Peugot/Bosch (better read the commentary)	John Littler
	Commentary:John Littler: The fuel filter on the series 3 XJ6 is interchangeable with the fuel filter for a Peugot (part no.P156713), the units are both Bosch units and appear identical from the outside, they both have 762.04.3.41.2 near the top they however had different numbers in the middle the original had 0 450 905 030 the new one had 0 450 and then a different set of 6 (which I didn't take down - sorry). The original unit was priced at $71 AUD (none in stock), the Peugot unit was only $27.
Air filter	SIII (mayber others)	GFE1089	Purolator A23587	spectre@startrekmail.com
	Commentary: In the everlasting quest for Jag info, I wandered into my local Pep Boys last night and checked out their supply of air filters. Purolator A23587 is a direct, exact replacement for the "canister" type air filter element in the S3. Didn't need to buy one, but it's about $7.
Additional in-line fuel filter	All	N/A	Napa 3299	Paul Gover
	Commentary: (Additional fuel filter to save wear and tear on the fuel pump) The fuel filter number @ NAPA is 3299. There is just enough room to splice them in each line ahead of the switch. Paul
Oil Filter	SIII, others?	02-GFE162	Deutsch D439; Fram PH2995; Purolator L30381	John Albrecht, B.J. Kroppe
	Commentary: Albrecht: As of 11/96, for 1984 XJ6. $ 3 US (Deutsch D439 claims exceptional filtering) . Kroppe: Purolator is a couple US$ cheaper. Available at Pep Boys and other well stocked parts houses.
Oil Filter (canister type)	SI		Napa 1337	Marvin Match
	Commentary: Marvin Match: The NAPA part number for the canister-type oil filter is 1337. It's made by WIX and the number stamped on the filter from NAPA is 551337.
Oil Filter (canister type)	SIII		Bosch 72147	Gregory Andrachuck
	Commentary: Oil filters: for those who change their own oil: the Bosch filter, part # 72147 is my filter of choice. It costs less than HALF the price of a Fram filter. It is a perfect fit and the same size as the original Jaguar filter. I believe it also fits the 5.3.